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Chain Tensioner
We were debating whether a floating tensioner (leaning to toward one manufactured by McMaster-Carr Model #5973K2) would work on a chain with a slight angle...we called the customer service and they didnt know so we wondered if anyone ever used on a chain path not parallel to the ground...if so how efective
Love, Peace, and Robot Grease Team 2582 PantherBots |
Re: Chain Tensioner
Buy the floating tensioner from Andymark. It is much cheaper and will probably work better.
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Re: Chain Tensioner
i think they should work the same because the tensioner angles the chain anyway besides if its taught the chain will have the same tension everywhere
just like a pulley |
Re: Chain Tensioner
I would use something similiar to what we used last year. It worked very well and cost about $6-$10 per tensioner. It was a skateboard wheel with a bolt going through it pulled back by two stiff springs. Just fingue out a way to mount it at the angle you want. (trust me. I do this for racing motor cycles quite a bit)
Srpings are from Ace Long bolts we had Got a $10 kiddie skateboard from Walmart and too the wheels off. |
Re: Chain Tensioner
You can cut/file/turn a slight groove in the skateboard wheel to provided a little lateral support if things get sloppy.
Chains work on a slight angle - watch a motocross race where they whip around a tight turn. :D |
Re: Chain Tensioner
We have used these for several years and they work AWESOME!!!!
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And are they awesome, or do they work awesomely? |
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who needs chain tensioners?
we are leavin them out again this year, less weight. mike d |
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They will work on a slight angle, but I would try to keep them as strait as possible. It works better. These work very well.
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If you have the resources to machine to close tolerances and you space your wheels by an integer number, you will not need tensioners until the chain stretches and then you can just replace it. I would personally not run without tensioners but it can be done. I would rather tension then replace but some teams are ok replacing chain more frequently for the weight savings.
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we are closing in on 11 months without replacing our chains on our 2008 robot. and not one problem. also as Adam stated it saved us from making all other tensioner associated parts. I predict the drive chains lasting at least 5 years on this year robot.
mike d |
Re: Chain Tensioner
Wow that is incredible. So are the chains loose now? How did you figure out the spacing to get it so perfect?
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Re: Chain Tensioner
they were loose to begin with and they are even more loose than when we started but with 180 degrees of wrap they are still working fine. as for the spacing, we use #25 chain so the axle spacing is just a dimension divisible by .250 or 1/4".
mike d |
Re: Chain Tensioner
Thats what I thought you guys did. I guess since you weren't using a super high force drivetrain the shock load on the chain wasn't great enough to break it. I always thought the reason for chain tensioning on #25 chain was so that it stays taught and doesn't snap when a shock is introduced. This year would be perfect to try going without a tensioner since the forces are so low on the drivetrain.
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I used to get all the drive train components about where I wanted them, mount the chain, then drill the holes in the right places. No real precision is required, though a good eye helps. Don't over complicate things. It's only rocket science if your robot is chosen for the next mission. You can probably find several good books about chain drives on Google books that were published from 1890 to 1915 or so.
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Re: Chain Tensioner
We made some UHMW & Ziptie chain tensioners which resembled those of Andymark. They were on 4 chains that were all at a 5-10 degree angle and they worked fine.
You can guarantee they'll work fine so long as the spacing between the chain through the tensioners is smaller than the diameter of your smallest sprocket. That may not be easy to do though. |
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