Chief Delphi - Pneumatic Tubing

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Re: Pneumatic Tubing

ok alright ill try all these suggestions

but as for powering the conveyor belt.. i was thinking of using pvc pipe, foam padding or the foam noodles, bike chain, and CIM motors..
would a FP motor be strong enough for the lift?

Re: Pneumatic Tubing

We used delrin tubing, wheel tread material, cable ties, and made some hubs so we could direct drive the rollers with Globe Motors.

Re: Pneumatic Tubing

Quote:

Originally Posted by kapolavery (Post 845377)

A single CIM motor would definitely be strong enough. We're using a single CIM motor through a 2:1 reduction on our ball intake mechanism using timing belt. This method is probably the easiest way possible to make a very fast and reliable ball intake mechanism. Here's some photos of how we did it:

And a photo of the entire intake roller assembly: http://www.team228.org/media/pictures/view/5085

A FP motor would also be strong enough, depending on far geared down it is. On our robot, we made a custom gearbox to power our elevator with a FP, with an overall ~20:1 ratio, which is pretty much about as fast as you can go. (For reference, the stock black plastic FP gearbox from the Kit of Parts has a ratio of 124:1). The gearbox was designed using the gears from the first two stages in a FP gearbox, with an additional 3:2 25-pitch sprocket reduction from the gearbox output to the elevator. Here's some pictures:

But yes, you can use the KoP FP gearbox without any modifications, it'll just be slow. On the other hand, it would be very easy to hoseclamp a piece of PVC onto the plastic output adapter to drive your rollers.

Re: Pneumatic Tubing

We made a sort of similar FP gearbox using only one stage of gear reduction, and more chain reduction, for our intake roller. The gearbox is pretty crude, but did not require much in the way of fancy machining...just punching some holes in 1/8" aluminum plate, and reaming the hole for the motor to the right size, and turning a 3/8" hex aluminum shaft so it's round on the ends to fit into bearings. Center to center distance (gear mesh) is sort of critical, but even if it's a bit loose it will still work ok, although it might not last more than one season :)