Mounting Electronics
 

Hey, so our team is trying to mount the rest of the electronics at the moment and we were wondering, what's the best way to mount them into the robot? Should we be using thin sheet metal as a "floor" or thin wood?

What are you guys doing?

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

Ernie,
We have used punched aluminum sheet (perf stock) for many years now. Wire ties hold everything in place. That way if something has to be replaced, moved, reoriented or removed a simple snip snip and it's done. Wires are tied down to the perf stock which makes management easy, and everything is secure. A sheet of lexan underneath the Crio insulates that part from the robot frame. The sheet is cut to fit into the frame and is then pop riveted in place.

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

That's a pretty cool idea, but the way we did our robot it's completely hollow right down the middle, so we need a way to hold up the punched aluminium sheet.

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

We use Tuffak polycarbonate (made by one of our sponsors!). It's very sturdy, easy to machine and shape and can support a reasonable amount of weight. We drill and bolt/nut the components to the Tuffak. The clear nature of the material lets us look through it to other components that may be mounted on the other side. It's light, strong, an insulator and has worked well for the last 5 robots.

We've talked about Al's zip tie method, but our team has gotten better at doing design first, drilling holes to the nearest 32'nd to make the mounting boards possible. On the other hand, we do zip tie things to the frame during the mockup process. There is a lot to be said for the "place, DoH!, snip and move process." Bonus is you can find zip ties in your team colors and make it part of the robot bling.

Don't forget to insulate the cRio and the camera from the frame!


This is a "before picture" showing temp mounting of the digital side car using zip ties. You can see the Jags on each side mounted on their boards. It is also the poster picture of how to NOT to wire a robot. (All the cables have been dressed and once I get back into the shop I'll post a picture on the improved look.)

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

If you are on a budget, try 3/16" peg boards. They are relatively light, sturdy and the holes are exactly 1" apart. I also like the 1/4" holes where the pneumatics tubing will fit through perfectly. We put the smooth side up. For light components, we use industrial strength velcro. For heavier things, we use zip ties through the 1/4" holes.

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

@Foster: That's a pretty clean robot (assuming you'll shorten those cables), I think I'll try using the polycarbonate plastic.

@Ed Law: That's what we currently have on the robot, but I'm worried about rigidity, and aesthetics. Though if nothing works, I'm sure we'll stick with the peg board.

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

We used plywood last year, we're using it again this year. Sheet metal screws hold the parts onto the wood, they are very easy to install/remove (no chasing after the ends of tie wraps or nuts on the bottom side). It is stiffer than polycarbonate (lexan, tuffak) for the same weight. It is non conducting. This year we made a box of it that supports the battery and cRio so we don't need any additional cross bracing, and allows us to remove the complete electronics assembly easily.

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

We usually use thin lexan, with some thin aluminum angle as reinforcement as needed (Under rio & battery) This year we are using Alumalite, which is 2 thin sheets of aluminum with a plastic core. The Rio is insulated by using nylon bolts and thin lexan spacer. We chose to use Alumalite to try to lessen the chance of static taking out more Jags.

http://www.harborsales.net/tabid/130... alite#Product

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

We've used wood for the past few years. It's strong, light, nonconductive, and as a bonus it dissipates static. We use sheetmetal screws for the light stuff and bolts for the heavy stuff.

Re: Mounting Electronics
 

397 is using perforated plastic similar to McMaster Part Number 9293T47 the last two years. It is ziptied to the frame this year and forms a basket for the electronics. The whole electronics system (san's battery) is located in an volume < 14 x 15 x 13.

2337 is using 1/16 polycarb pop riveted to the frame, they are holding it under tension so no other supports are needed.

As for cross members, 8020 works pretty well if you need a very structural piece (ie to hold your frame members together) Otherwise I would suggest some angle (1/8 or 1/16 depending on your weight and what you have on hand)

I hope this helped, you may also want to take a look at some of 1323's latest robot for some inspiration on how they mount their electronics (254/968 and 233 too if I recall but I know 1323 has a nice clean picture and RC is always willing to talk about how it was done)