![]() |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
We fixed it by moving our radio away from other electronics and metal, uninstalled the DS, reinstalled the DS (from a different image than the origional), and reupdated the DS (from a different image than the origional). We believe that we had a bad install of the DS since another classmmate (one loaned to us) worked well. |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
My team has found that on the classmates one usb port gets no power or very little and the other one gets practically all the power ( i could better explain this but im extremely tired right now). i advise test both usb ports and label the one that gets the power and use the usb hub on it
|
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
We did have the PSOC connected to the right-hand port, and the hub on the left hand port, and we experienced the problem (as described by Ethan above). In the pits, we saw the security light flash orange on occasion, and later saw it flashing orange and green very rapidly. I don;'t know what, if anything, these were telling us. All at the same time, we did swap the ethernet cable, secure the power plug better, and swap out the WGA with our spare. Our WGA was well-located, away from most metal, out in the clear. (Hey, I'm a ham. I know these things) So, the conclusion is, we have no idea what fixed it, but both 1089 and 25 gave us that advice, and someone asked the pit announcer to say it as well. Don |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
This is triage. Just do whatever works to get back on the field.
If they were dead on the field, I had drivers patch their drive joysticks directly into the Classmate and forget kickers and other controls just to get moving. That usually worked (except when that velcro pulled out that Classmate battery). I came late when your robot failed on the field and got that yellow warning light, and stood behind you at the practice field after you'd swapped out the WGA and were retesting. You had things well in hand. I must say your radio placement was indeed excellent and it was very easy to see the status lights when you were on the field. There was one particular robot that had everything so buried that not a single status light could be seen, and they bolted their cover on so we couldn't get at anything. They sat dead for a few matches and there wasn't a thing we could do to help them. |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
|
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
We saw a similar problem in one of our matches that was solved by unplugging and reconnecting the field cable. It might be related to our classmate not actually latching Ethernet cables though, which was causing us to lose fms connection (yet another perfect place for electrical tape)
|
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
In response to some of the problems with the USB hub, Half way through build season ours stopped working just about half of the time. What I mean by not working, is that nothing could be recognized by the Classmate. we solved the problem by purchasing a new USB hub, and since then, we have not had any problems.
On one occasion, we were at a pre-ship mini regional and we could not get the Joysticks recognized during the last match of the day:mad: , the problem was solved again by replacing the hub. After discussing with other teams, we discovered many were having this exact same problem with the hubs. I would recommend all teams to have a spare in case theirs goes down before a match! (Theres nothing worse than a dead robot!) -Mcgurky |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
We were using both red and black wires to power our joysticks since the beginning of build so I am unaware of what types of problems occurred. What usually happened? Is this what was happening with 1089 and 816, they told me one stick just stopped functioning.
|
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Having both red/black USB hub cables plugged in did not always prevent the controls from failing.
816 is a case in point. They did everything right, but still died. Their final solution was to plug just their drive joysticks directly into the Classmate ports, so they could at least drive. They had to give up their kicker and other controls though. It seems the hub or it's cable is a major failure point and it's difficult to predict if a team will have trouble with it or not. Bring a different model to competition as a safety backup. My suspicion is it's really a USB cable or connection problem. |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
For less than $10, you can save yourselves a ton of headaches. |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
Our control board included 2 Joysticks and 8 Push Button Inputs, all of which were plugged into the USB hub, which was then plugged into the Classmate using both the Red and Black Wires. Throughout the day our joysticks dropped in and out but I don't believe we ever lost our buttons. I'm going to have our programmer and Electronics Mentor Re-Wire the PSOC Board and check all of the connections for any shorts or anything that would cause it to draw excessive power. For Philly we're going to try plugging our Joysticks into the Hub and then into one of the USB Ports on the Classmate and then Plug our PSOC board into the Other. Hopefully this'll resolve our problems. Mark, Thanks again for all of your help throughout New Jersey. Quote:
We also had a Faulty C-Rio Power Connection that was causing our C-Rio to Short out and Reset on Saturday... |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
Troubleshooting is the most fun for me, and a working robot the reward. Sorry I can't make Philly, but I'd recommend you also purchase a different model USB hub as a backup. I suspect both the USB power cable as top of my suspect list, and the USB hub itself a possibility. If you get a spare hub you can test with both a different cable and with a different hub. If it happens to you on the field again, the first thing I want you to try is hit the F1 button on your Classmate. Let me know if that helps at all. It'll make the Driver Station close and reopen all the joysticks (thanks Greg). |
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
|
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Quote:
|
Re: Powering your USB Hub at Competition
Just to add a little bit of information as to what happened with us 1089.
I apologize up front for the length of this post.... We ran all day Friday fine, and most of the day on Saturday until we experienced this problem. I'm still not 100% sure what the root cause was, but it is my belief that a combination of Low Classmate battery, 2 Joysticks, PSOC (4 buttons box) and the USB hub all being powered by a single USB port caused the USB port to not be able provide enough power to drive everything needed. This caused the joysticks to not respond and hence unable to drive, even though some buttons worked. Connecting the RED and the BLACK connectors as a triage stop gap idea from the USB hub to two ports on the classmate cleared the problem. This solution for a short explanation allowed power to be drawn from BOTH ports to cover the power requirements of the attached devices. Looking deeper into this issue, I've come to the conclusion that for some teams it may be wise to balance the load from your controls between the two USB ports on the Classmate. Some other Joysticks have a higher power requirement than those ATTACK-3 provided in the kit. I do not yet have the milliamp draw numbers for the ATTACK-3 joysticks or the hub, however the PSOC is capable of drawing up to 400mA. The PSOC is divided into quadrants each able to source 100mA. Given that a USB port can provide up to 500mA total, it could be very possible, that a combination of PSOC, higher powered Joysticks, hubs, etc could exceed the available power on a single port. That's the best theory and explanation I have for what is happening. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:20. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © Chief Delphi