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Re: Chain Tensioning
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Also, we used these guys on our '05 robot: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6233k33/=6iqpvw I really don't like them because I don't feel that they tensioned the chain all that well, but it also wasn't the best chain routing, so these may work too. Something else we use on 816 is adjustable transmission mounts. Every robot we've built since 2006 has had one in some form or another. This year, the transmissions are mounted on 1/4-20 threaded rod which allows them to move up and down to tension if needed. |
Re: Chain Tensioning
The best method of chain tensioning is to properly design your chain run so that there is no need for a tensioner. However, to be more realistic for FIRST, the most robust system of chain tensioning is to be able to vary the distance between two sprockets. Anything else adds unnecessary complexity and strain on what should be a rather simple system.
Once 114 implemented a proper chain tensioning system (Aim High, 06), we did not break a single chain, or have any chain related problems. We have since had zero problems with chain. |
Re: Chain Tensioning
In 2007, 2008, and 2010 We've used small cylinders of HDPE to tension our chain. We simply bolt it on a piece of angle with the hole off-center, rotate to proper tension, then tighten it down .
(2009 We didn't use chain we did direct gears instead) Here are pictures of it's implementation on those 3 robots mentioned above: 2007: http://www.vandenrobotics.com/plogge...n/dsc07244.JPG 2008: http://www.vandenrobotics.com/plogge...n/dsc07275.JPG 2010: http://www.vandenrobotics.com/plogge...n/sn850302.JPG |
Re: Chain Tensioning
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Re: Chain Tensioning
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Re: Chain Tensioning
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Thanks for the advice guys, we really appreciate all the help.
I was wondering though, if spring tensioners only work in one direction, why not use two? One oriented one way, and another oriented the opposite way. Maybe something like this? |
Re: Chain Tensioning
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Re: Chain Tensioning
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Re: Chain Tensioning
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As for design decisions, we just made a bunch of different sizes. To tension the chain, simply pop the floating idler sprocket out and move it closer toward one of the driving/driven sprockets. You may have to readjust the idler position somewhat frequently as the chain breaks in, but once the chain finishes stretching you can leave the floating sprockets in the same position for the rest of the season. If you don't have [access to] a CNC machine, you can always just get plastic (nylon) sprockets and use them as floating idlers. |
Re: Chain Tensioning
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Did you guys put a chamfer on the sprockets and how thick are they? Thanks, -RC |
Re: Chain Tensioning
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Re: Chain Tensioning
I suspect that the best way to tension a chain will be a long-standing debate in FRC, with no clear winner. Every system has its own pros and cons.
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Re: Chain Tensioning
Garrett, there is a patent for a dual tensioner very much like the one you illustrated.
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Re: Chain Tensioning
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Re: Chain Tensioning
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Here's a link to patent 4069719. There are additional illustrations in the patent doc.
http://www.google.com/patents?id=8LAwAAAAEBAJ I often use the Google patent search for ideas for mechanisms. If you find one relevant patent, there are often others cited and you can check them out. Then there are endless hours of entertainment reading patents such as the MIG welder attachment for a drill that converts it into a spool gun. Or the golf clubs that are powered by a shotgun shell. |
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