Chief Delphi

Chief Delphi (http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/index.php)
-   Extra Discussion (http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=68)
-   -   pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1 (http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85737)

548swimmer 09-05-2010 23:17

pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 

548swimmer 09-05-2010 23:18

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Any comments?
Should the bushings be brass or nylon?

CraigHickman 10-05-2010 00:49

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
This drive design does not need suspension.

548swimmer 10-05-2010 00:59

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigHickman (Post 961307)
This drive design does not need suspension.

Why not? It is incorporated as an innovative element in case it becomes necessary in the future. It is possible this system will never be built.

Greg Needel 10-05-2010 04:33

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
I am not sure if this is what you are trying to convey in your above image so if not consider this. Using your pivot shaft as a jack shaft will enable the chains to freely rotate and stay tensioned throughout the range of suspension. You can determine the center distances for chain runs with an even number of links and then do not require external tensioners. Here is even an calculator to do it for you. http://www.botlanta.org/converters/d.../sprocket.html

As for if this drive needs a suspension or not totally depends on your team and it's engineering decisions regarding the application for this drive. Keep thinking outside of the box it will serve you well in the future.







Quote:

Originally Posted by CraigHickman (Post 961307)
This drive design does not need suspension.

There are no absolutes in engineering decisions. People and organizations value different things and out of context it would be wrong to make assumptions on the necessity of a feature.

Hawiian Cadder 10-05-2010 05:20

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
last year we did the same type of thing with our prototype, we had a delrin tube tensioned with a zip tie, the tubes 1/4 inch thick wall was completely destroyed by the chain in about 15 min, if you do that, you are going to need some large diameter nylon.

JamesCH95 10-05-2010 09:17

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 548swimmer (Post 961283)
Any comments?
Should the bushings be brass or nylon?

your chain bearings could be nylon, depending on how hard they push against the chain. Nylon will be better than delrin or teflon in terms of wear. Brass could work too, but it might be excessively loud. You could use two idler sprockets and not have to worry about anything.

548swimmer 10-05-2010 10:59

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Needel (Post 961317)
I am not sure if this is what you are trying to convey in your above image so if not consider this. Using your pivot shaft as a jack shaft will enable the chains to freely rotate and stay tensioned throughout the range of suspension. You can determine the center distances for chain runs with an even number of links and then do not require external tensioners. Here is even an calculator to do it for you. http://www.botlanta.org/converters/d.../sprocket.html

As for if this drive needs a suspension or not totally depends on your team and it's engineering decisions regarding the application for this drive. Keep thinking outside of the box it will serve you well in the future.









There are no absolutes in engineering decisions. People and organizations value different things and out of context it would be wrong to make assumptions on the necessity of a feature.

Thank you very much for your feedback!

The goal was to show how I intend to keep the chain under tension while it is pivoting. The nylon spacers are adjustable so that they can act as chain tensioners. When the carriage moves up and down, the tensioners will as well, theoretically keeping the chain under tension. If any one knows whether or not this will work, please let me know.

The bushing question was in reference to the bushings on the carriage that are currently brass. I guess a better way to phrase it would be to ask whether brass or nylon has a lower coefficient of friction with aluminum.

JamesCH95 10-05-2010 13:06

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
The solid/plain surface bearings (which are different from bushings) that the suspension pivots on could be made from brass, with a ground steel shoulder bolt being used as a shaft, which would be very strong and durable. Better yet they could both be purchased parts. If the shaft is aluminum I would use a nylon or delrin bearing so that the bearing wears faster than the shaft.

548swimmer 10-05-2010 15:03

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesCH95 (Post 961373)
The solid/plain surface bearings (which are different from bushings) that the suspension pivots on could be made from brass, with a ground steel shoulder bolt being used as a shaft, which would be very strong and durable. Better yet they could both be purchased parts. If the shaft is aluminum I would use a nylon or delrin bearing so that the bearing wears faster than the shaft.

We like doing all of our own fab work, so I'll swith the material to nylon. Thanks for the help!

JamesCH95 10-05-2010 17:10

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Good deal. Look at 7075 or 2024 for the axle, with a good lathe you'll be able to get an excellent surface finish and great strength. I don't know if you have one, but a HSS reamer to do the inside of any polymer bearing is much much much easier/faster/idiot proof than boring it out.

548swimmer 10-05-2010 17:25

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesCH95 (Post 961421)
Good deal. Look at 7075 or 2024 for the axle, with a good lathe you'll be able to get an excellent surface finish and great strength. I don't know if you have one, but a HSS reamer to do the inside of any polymer bearing is much much much easier/faster/idiot proof than boring it out.

We usually just drill it out on a lathe, and all of our machining is very high quality because we have access to the Milford Proving Grounds machine shop. I guess we could ream it, but it's unlikely anyone will remember to do that by the time this gets made, if it even does, in September/ this summer.

AdamHeard 10-05-2010 18:59

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 548swimmer (Post 961423)
We usually just drill it out on a lathe, and all of our machining is very high quality because we have access to the Milford Proving Grounds machine shop. I guess we could ream it, but it's unlikely anyone will remember to do that by the time this gets made, if it even does, in September/ this summer.

Reaming doesn't really take much longer than drilling, I don't see any reason not to do it.

548swimmer 10-05-2010 19:03

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by AdamHeard (Post 961442)
Reaming doesn't really take much longer than drilling, I don't see any reason not to do it.

Remembering. Many of the build team members are so used to working in our school's "shop" where we have no reamers, that when we are in a real shop, we just go straight for the drill bits because we're used to them. If we remember to ream, there is no reason for us not to.

AdamHeard 10-05-2010 19:07

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 548swimmer (Post 961443)
Remembering. Many of the build team members are so used to working in our school's "shop" where we have no reamers, that when we are in a real shop, we just go straight for the drill bits because we're used to them. If we remember to ream, there is no reason for us not to.

We work in our school's shop as well, and purchased the few sizes of reamers we routinely use; they were inexpensive and well worth it.

548swimmer 10-05-2010 19:08

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by AdamHeard (Post 961444)
We work in our school's shop as well, and purchased the few sizes of reamers we routinely use; they were inexpensive and well worth it.

Alright, I'll talk to our... I'm not really sure who would make that decision...

I'll figure that out at our next meeting, along with the answer :D.

JamesCH95 11-05-2010 09:05

Re: pic: prototype drivetrain v2.1
 
Drill bits are great for clearing material out and for making holes where fasteners can pass through, but a drill bit will never come close to surface finish or precision of a reamer. Say you're making the bearing for a 1/2" axle, I would drill with a 0.4921 jobber bit then ream to 0.5010, a HSS reamer in that size is $21 from McMaster and has a tolerance of +/- 0.0003" an impractical tolerance for drilling or boring, but anyone can do it with a reamer.

Best of luck!


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 21:09.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © Chief Delphi