Dlink Fried
 

So our team accidently fried our dlink. Are we able to use a linksys router or any other wireless adapter instead?

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Well i dont know, i would read the handbook and see. I think your best bet is to go buy another one, i think there around $70 on newegg.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

thanks. yeah we just checked, it has to be a dlink. oh well, yeah we need a new one. they are $72 on amazon.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

For competition purposes, yes, it must be the exact same part. In the meantime you can likely get just about any wireless router to work, although the exact configuration steps required will be up to you. A better option for testing and limited driving is probably to invest in a long tether till you can get a new router.

Dare I ask how you fried it? I'd be a little surprised if connecting it directly to 12v accidentally could fry it. Was it connected to the power converter, and have you verified that it is operating correctly?

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Connecting it to 12 volts will damage the DAP-1522 and it is not reverse polarity protected as several teams have reported here. Be sure the power is wired correctly before inserting the power connector.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

I am kind-of new to using a different AP/bridge and don't want to mess anything up since its not mine and all that jazz, so I am wondering where you connect the 5V AP/Bridge on the power distribution.

With new news... Apparently we need a converter. Any suggestions?

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Use the Kit of Parts web page.

Under the Control System section you will find the Robot Power Distribution Diagram document.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Slightly a redundant statement as the diagram blatantly states CONVERTER. In the kit of parts, a converter was not supplied (to my knowledge).
So once again is there any ideas on what to get to dim the 12v to 5v while supplying the correct amperage?

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Look again.

You will find the power converter listed as the second item on Page 11 of the Kit of Parts Checklist. It was packaged in a small white cardboard box in the black tote. There is a helpful wiring diagram on the back of the converter.


We installed a Wago connector on the +12 input wires; it plugs directly into the dedicated regulated 12 volt output of the Power Distribution. We also installed a pair of Anderson PowerPole connectors on the +5 output wires, to match the connectors we put in line on the D-Link's power wire. That lets us use the wall adapter if we want to.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

It's on Page 11 of the KOP checklist "Power Converter 360 CPR"

Re: Dlink Fried
 

My team has used the 5V output on the PDB and it worked just fine. We were using the power for last yrs router before we got this yrs power set up.

However, this is NOT legal in competition. My understanding is that you have to go through the power converter...but it works fine for testing.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

The reason it's not legal is that the 5v camera output isn't up-regulated. Your router would lose power when the battery voltage sags below seven volts or so, which it will do under heavy load. The dedicated 12v output stays there even with the battery input down to about three volts. The cRIO will disable all the robot outputs when it sees the battery voltage that low, but you won't lose communication.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Thank you all so much. It was "overlooked" in the KOP. I was notified of it at about noon this morning via a text.

It is now hooked up and working, Thank you everyone for help and thank you forums! :)

Special thanks to Alan and Joe. Our teams trying new things and id assume it got overlooked in the movement from one area to another

Re: Dlink Fried
 

That's exactly what I am planning to do. great minds think alike :yikes:

I'm going to put the Powerpoles at right angles so they can't be accidently plugged into a 12v circuit.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

Great idea! This is another reason, Powerpoles are such a great product.

Re: Dlink Fried
 

We tried that. The two connector housings won't mesh together right on both pieces of wire. The supply side needs to twist one way, and the load side needs to twist the other. Our "solution" is to use white housings for +5 instead of red.

It's also possible, with sufficient discipline, to always enforce something like the "red on the right" rule for +12 and violate it for +5. You'd still be able to physically plug them together, but the colors wouldn't match up if you tried.