pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

How much does the frame (just the metal) weigh? Is there any reason you chose #25 rather than #35?

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

why not put a larger flange on the end pieces, and do away with a metal base plate. my team uses verolite as our base plate, and it is as, if not more rigid that aluminum pocketed that much, it also weighs less, and tends to pick up less dirt.

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

Not a lot is as rigid for the weight as an aluminium baseplate, and that cross rigidity won't be added just by making a longer flange.

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

If you design the cutouts on the top of the frame bigger you can drop the wheels in/out without taking apart the side panel.

Add more material around the axle points.

A staggered .75-1.25 dia" circle is a better/stronger lightening pattern.

consider a rail mounting system for your manipulator

adding one more return flange on the front and rear side panels would make the panels considerably stronger.

hexed live axles is the way to go


Roy

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

I like live axles, but they would make it kind of hard to "drop" the wheel, wouldn't they? The side panel still has to get out of the way in order to pull the wheel off the axle.

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

Not if you pull the axle out.

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

How do you plan on mounting the electronics to the belly pan?

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

triangle are the key to getting the live axles out easily.
look at 233's 2008 robot, its very similar to this design only it uses box tubing rather than sheetmetal for the frame rails.
mike d

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

Here's a picture of what Mike is referring to in his post above: http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/photos/31472

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

Thanks Dustin for posting the link, I figured the CD community would have an easier time finding a pic than I.
mike d

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

How did you get the nice gallery look?

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

Lemiant:
The metal probably weighs 12 lbs if you include the gearbox flanges. I chose to use #25 chain because it's smaller, is entirely capable of handling the loads, and because I believe that we could get the alignment right for it to work. Also, I get the look using the PhotoView 360 software that came with my SolidWorks license. It's really easy - just set the material you want for the aluminum, add any textures (ex black for the CIMs), throw it in the program, and go. Just have a hefty computer - it takes about an hour to render on my 2.4 ghz quad core.

Roy:
The cutouts idea is a good point - almost forgot about getting the wheels in there. I'm not sure what you mean by a "rail mounting system" or return flange. Also, I don't see any particular benefit to going with live axles, hex or otherwise. While live axles certainly make sense for cantilevered wheels as in a West Coast Drive, I don't see the point here.

Team 3266:
If we mounted the electronics directly to the belly pan (probably the best way to do it), I would go back and add mounting holes/material for the electrical components. However, since electronics layout is dependent on other stuff, I would leave it until it was actually going to be built.

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

This looks very similar to the chassis we used this year except we used super shifters.

We riveted it together using aluminum angle as a connector. We made up a jig to allow us to put all of the rivets in the right places...they needed to be place specifically so they would be in shear...

VERY rigid

Things we learned...

1. Make the access holes for the wheels and power train bigger.
2. Think about maintenance from the beginning.
3. Alter your design depending on what is going to be on top... remember that it may be easy to get to everything in this frame until you put the rest of the robot on top of it...

Integration of this type of frame with the other design features of your robot will be critical...
If you have the wheels sticking out on the top side you will have less area to add other supports... You might think about making the frame so that your wheels are lower than your top piece. This would provide more flexibility to build up...

good luck and nice job!!

Re: pic: Another Sheetmetal 6WD
 

[quote=Team2374;1064773]Lemiant:


Roy:
The cutouts idea is a good point - almost forgot about getting the wheels in there. I'm not sure what you mean by a "rail mounting system" or return flange. Also, I don't see any particular benefit to going with live axles, hex or otherwise. While live axles certainly make sense for cantilevered wheels as in a West Coast Drive, I don't see the point here.

A rail mount is a method for attaching your manipulator to the drive base. By using simple pre punched L brackets that run the length, rivets and pem nuts you can provide a universal way of mounting your manipulator. Designed right the manipulator will have adjustment front to back and left to right. (Google Retma rail pattern)

Using a hex axle will reduce the number of parts for your drive base and simplify the assembly. No more tightening bolts from the spocket to hub. No more slots to machine for key ways. No more lost keys. After the initial investment for the tools to do a hex setup you will have a standard method that will provide you team into the future.

Adding another bent flange on the front and read panel will make the panel stiffer and stronger.

Roy