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I personally prefer to tap the block and have each flange on held separately, but that's obviously up to each team to decide. |
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Here it is without the frame.
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Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?
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I think that if the slots are cut in the frame rail that the plates become superfluous. Mk. 32, you may consider using flanged or heavy hex bolts and/or washers and omitting the side plates. |
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I think you've found a good solution there. Keep up the good work.
-Brando |
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A few years ago, I had something like this bearing block fabricated for 931, courtesy of Jabba. He started with round bar stock.
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That looks great and easy to make! Looks like you could do the bore on a manual lathe with a DRO and then the rest on a mill with DRO. |
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Or maybe center punch holes using a template and then drill that way. Precision isn't terribly vital for this kind of part. |
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And Chris is right, there are other ways to get the same result. |
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Threads like this are one of the reasons I love this website so much.
The idea that a guy can post his designs on a website and people from across the world can pick apart his design and give their input on how to improve it, while the OP willingly changes his design accordingly is pretty darn awesome. I hope this design sees a lot of success. It definitely has the potential. |
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McMaster # 9056K11 (or similar from a less expensive supplier) might be a good start for Richard's design.
Without a DRO, how would one check the bored diameter? Is the only way to start/stop the lathe constantly? |
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