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pic: 816's 2011 Off-Season Teaser
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Are they gripper parts? It looks like a pulley with a hex broach and something else with a hex broach
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I assume I'm ineligible for this... |
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A little hint to stir the crowd;
It does cool stuff. -Nick |
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A double sprocket before the teeth are hobbed, and the cylinder is likely a wheel hub to be press/cast into a plastic wheel.
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You're right, though I hoped that it'd take a little longer to figure out. The part on the left is a blank for a 22T double sprocket, made from 7075 Aluminum. It's been broached before the sprocket cutting to make things a little easier for the mill operator. The part on the right is a 'plug' for a 2" wide colson wheel, made from 6061 AL. Preliminary testing shows that the press is good to at least 80 foot-pounds of torque. (I'll have to bug you on FB for a shipping address once the stickers are made.) |
Re: pic: 816's 2011 Off-Season Teaser
I'm pretty sure that the smaller item could be part of a cable winch. Could the larger item be an adapter from a hex shaft to a different type of shaft?
EDIT: Dangit, I was both late and wrong. |
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Drain plug to keep the water out and a small anchor???
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Looking good. -Brando |
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For season I see the resources used to make the double sprockets better used elsewhere, and instead just purchase off the shelf sprockets.
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This entire project is heavily influenced by a few factors: -We wanted to try some new construction methods. -We wanted to build a lighter more competitive drive than what we used in 2008. -We wanted to move to an 'assembly' style build method. -The shop foreman at our machine shop told me to design something 'interesting' for his guys to make - one thing lead to another and yeah.... Here are some more pictures for those of you that are interested: ![]() ![]() |
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- Sunny G. |
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We just use two single sprockets. Makes all of our drive sprockets the exact same.
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http://www.andymark.com/SearchResult...ouble+sprocket |
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Team 2348 has been making our double sprockets for the past 5 seasons for our "West Coast" bicycle chain drive.
As suggested, we should instead just buy them if possible. A lot of time, energy and round stock is used. |
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Ah- yes the mental picture popped into place. Knurling is really REALLY simple (and pretty cool). It could be something you guys experiment with now, especially since you already have the lathe, etc. The gearbox plate looks good. I assume bearings will be pressed into it. I'd be curious to see what results you get as far as the tolerance on the press fit from a waterjet. We've had access to a waterjet for a while, and we use it for a lot of things. One thing I've always been wary about is bearing holes though. We usually will cut out almost the entire part and then go back to correct the bearing holes with a secondary process. -Brando |
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The bearings are more of a tight slip fit then a true press. I can get a good measure on the bore when I go to the shop tonight. We have originally intended to ream the holes under the assumption that they'd run under, but they came out of the waterjet just right it seems. Got one of the finished Sprockets: ![]() |
Re: pic: 816's 2011 Off-Season Teaser
We hit some snags with the kids on winter break, so the axles are keeping us from getting this guy running. Here's how we left it before the Holidays:
![]() My lathe guy assured me that our parts would be done by our next meeting, so we'll see if this thing runs before Kick-off. Here's a render of the finished product that I may as well post up since someone (Andrew...) made me talk about it in the EWCP Christmas Cast: ![]() And Brando, to follow up, I had the chance to test the press fit on one of the colson plugs at the machine shop with a few of the guys. Pressed the hub into the colson, clamped the wheel into the vice, then used a Torque Wrench to apply Torque. We found out that I wan't strong enough to apply more than 80 ft-lbs of Torque before stopping. (Interestingly enough, the tread of the wheel started to deform after ~50ft-lbs of TQ or so, pretty sure they'll rarely see more than that during competition.) |
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Yeah with those what I assume are polypropylene hubs you can do quite a generous interference fit. I think last year I had a .010" interference and pressed the hubs in with no problems, and never had an issue with slipping them. I imagine you will see similar success. I'm curious about the 10WD tho. Are you guys just playing around with possibilities, or do you feel there is a strategic advantage to the 10WD? Looks slick. -Brando |
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Am I the only one who thinks Dustin's CAD looks like a bug for some reason?:rolleyes: |
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10WD is is to change Drive trains on the fly, we can pull two bolts and make it an 8WD, Four bolts to man a 6WD, so on and so fourth. Should help the kids get a real world understanding of Drive trains. The side note to this is that we'll be using this as a testing rig to see what wheel configurations perform the best and to see if the number of wheels increases and or decreases performance. Should be interesting... |
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So are the center 6 wheels all on the same plane? |
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Each part, especially the hubs, did need to be broached multiple times. We've found that most Aluminum Hex runs a few thousandths over, which was enough to make assembly a PITA. If I counted correctly, each sprocket has now had the broach pressed through it three times, once to do the primary cut, two more (each from a different side) to open the hex up enough that it plays well with hex shaft. The wheels each took between 3 and 4 passes a piece before they played nice, again alternating sides with each pass. With any luck, this should be running tonight. |
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