Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawiian Cadder
<snip>
the bearing hole is a-centric by 1/16 of an inch in bot the x and y directions, this allows for chain tensioning as well as the raising of the outer wheels in a tank drive by 1/8 of an inch. with this setup and a few half links, #25 chain can be kept tight without any sliding hardware.</snip>
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This concept probably isn't patentable since it's been thought of already (probably), and probably isn't totally unique to FRC --
but there isn't a solution like this in a COTS form at all. (Check patentability anyways; you have 1 year...). I really like the idea of raising the wheels while also putting tension on the chain without extra hardware. If it fit within a 2x1 rail (for live axles) or 1x1 rail (for dead axles), I'd definitely consider purchasing it because simplifies the fabrication of the frame.
However, there are tradeoffs in your frame design just because of this single bearing block alone. For a 'kit of part' type of frame, this block appears to appears to force cantilevered wheels. It also has no use on a dead-axle setup in its current form. Cantilevered wheels force certain design considerations of extra structure for support and bumper mounting due to the bumper rules. Given that bumpers are one of the least-complied with rules at the start of inspection day at a Regional competition, I'd say we need to make any KOP frame so simple the rookies only have to slap some wood/noodles/fabric on it to comply.
Now -- you
could modify this frame to address everything above, and then compete with the current KOP design. Or you could work with AndyMark so you could supply the bearing blocks and they could supply a frame that is slightly modified to accommodate your bearing blocks. (this is just conjecture, and doesn't represent AM in any way, fyi). Put 3/8" holes in the bearing blocks, simplify your bolt pattern, and see if you can make it fit into a slight variation (i.e. add holes) of the current KOP setup. Try not to change the dimensions of the U (1"x1") if you choose this method. A live-axle version that fit on the 2" face of 2x1 rails would be awesome too. Bonus points for also making a special live-axle block that directly mounts a SuperShifter, Toughbox, or Toughbox Nano to it... (though I have no idea why you'd need that
).
We need a little 'light-bulb' emoticon...
[edit] Also note that the "KOP"-type setups use #35 for a good reason. #35 chain allows more margin of error in slop / misaligned wheels, which is important for rookies in many cases. 1/16" lateral tension may not be enough for #35 -- so you may also play around with dimensions that move the bearing/axle hole more laterally than vertically when it's rotated.