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Re: Tool Advice: Cutting Aluminum
The $1100 cold saws will do just fine. They may not be quite as precision as the more expensive ones, but mostly the differences are cosmetic. As with many of the lower-priced tools, the castings are a bit rough, but the bearing surfaces are fine, the blades are the same, motor torque and speed are the same, etc.
Cold saws run very slowly, since they are on a massive gear-head drive. The slow speed means monstrous amount of torque which translates into cutting force. Also, they have many very sharp hardened teeth. I have not had good experience having them resharpened. But the cost of a new blade isn't much different from a 96 tooth carbide-tipped blade that you would use on a miter box saw. In my experience, cold saws cut stock like 8020 much faster than a bandsaw and give a much better finish on the cut. What's more, they cut cold roll steel about as fast as they cut aluminum.
Cold saws come with a vise that holds the stock tightly. Some hold the stock on both sides of the blade, some only clamp one side; both work well. You have to pull down on the handle which rocks the saw over onto the stock. The head is spring loaded to help control the motion and assist in returning the head to the upright position. There is a clam-shell blade guard which opens as the saw comes down, helping to keep fingers in their proper place attached to hands. I've never had a cold saw buck, grab, or throw parts. They are very comfortable tools to use.
And remember, they are cheaper than a trip to the emergency room! This, after all, is the correct way to judge the true cost of a tool such as this.
Dr. Bob
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