First off, thanks to all to all for the great feedback. I'll see what I can do to address all the questions.
@Jamie Kalb: Like Akash suggested, the drive motors and gearing have been moved up to free up space on the belly pan. While that does move the CG up a bit higher we think that it is still a good trade for easy of access and maintenance.
@Akash Rastogi: The frame is all 1/16 flat sheet that has been waterjet. We then pop rivet the sheet to 1x1 1/16 angle to create the box. Our team does not have access to a proper bend break or press break (nc or manual) so this method of construction is what we've come up with for using sheet. The odd flange that I think you are talking about is the backing that has been left for the angle that the sheet is pop riveted to.
The transmissions are modified super sifters with the shifting shaft moved and the last stage removed. The output shaft is coupled to the rear wheel with a short chain run to allow easy removal of the wheel for maintenance.
@Allen Gregory IV: Those are 1/4-20 bolts. We have been going back and forth between using hollow shafting with a single bolt, and tapping the ends of the shaft and using two bolts. In any case they will be dead axle.
I'll have to get back to you on the solenoids, I can't seem to remember the model name off the top of my head and I am out of the house.
@Ninja Bait: We considered using a specific center to center distance between the wheels to allow for a set number of links. However, we felt that the chain would still have a propensity to stretch so the tensioners were placed in the model. The tensioners coupled with the idler also move the more of the chain inside the frame and increase ground clearance, which were only more pros for this option.
@Chris Is Me: The follower wheel is spring loaded. We are using spring steel with the wheel mounted lower than its radius. It's kinda like an upside down diving board.
@0'Sanchseski: Yes, those are indeed 4" AM Plaction Wheels.
@Tristan Lall: Sharp eye noticing that not all the electronics have mounting tabs/holes. Most of the electronic position is still up in the air between the design/CAD team and the electrical team.
Thanks for the tip on the larger radius, we'll be going back and adding a more generous fillet to a lot of the trussing and also removing the holes you suggested.
We used the same method for mounting our bumpers last year and found it very effective. By having the bumpers inside the frame rails added a good deal of stiffness and made install and removal quick and easy.
The tensioning slot was left as is to allow more than the shown configuration for chain runs, but I do agree that as shown it takes away from the strength of the frame. We'll take another look into it.
Thanks again to everyone.
Please keep the questions and critiques coming, they are more than helpful!
-Dave McLaughlin