It's great to hear you guys were able to pull through. It's always terrible when teams have to deal with this kind of stuff.
Here's a list of electrical stuff:
General purpose connectors: We use quick disconnects and love them, even if they're annoying to deal with at times: stud mounting tabs, Digikey A27859-ND, 14-16AWG females, All Electronics 6225, 14-16AWG males 4225; 10-12AWG fem/male are 1325 and 2325 but only partially insulated - if you want fully, look on Mouser/Digikey).
General purpose connectors: Alternatively for a bit more cash, you can go with Powerpoles, which can be purchased from
Powerwerx or
Andymark (we've always foregone them because of the pricing disparity). I've heard that they're incredible because they're foolproof and easy to use, but do keep in mind that I've never had the opportunity to use them.
Motor connectors: Specifically for the small ones, like the Banebots and the FPs, use 3/16" female quick disconnects. We use All Electronics 1250, but you can find them on Andymark too.
Battery connectors: get the
connectors and
cable (6AWG recommended) separately. I recommend the welding cable for its flexibility, which I find makes it much easier and preferable to work with than the kind of wire that other suppliers (including Andymark - sorry Andy!) offer. It is, however, a bit on the pricey side.
Wire: Definitely 10/12 AWG, both red and black. Depending on your past usage, 16/18/22 AWG, again, both red and black, for sensors and low-power applications. Powerwerx and All Electronics carry bulk supplies; Andymark offers unspooled lengths. See Mouser, Digikey, and local suppliers for alternatives.
OI (or other custom stuff): 26/28/30AWG in assorted colors and uninsulated solid 22AWG (local Radioshack). Header pins, female for mounting stuff like the Cypress, male for output pins (we use PWM cables in our OIs with male header pins for easy servicing) (again, local Radioshack). A CCI, from
EStop.
Custom PWMs: Hansen Hobbies. We use the economy 22AWG wire and haven't had any problems with it. You'll also obviously want both female and male pins as well as 1x3 housings; for encoders, consider the 1x4 housings (or if you use Jaguars, 1x5s). I've personally had trouble with their ratcheting crimper, but others on this forum have and never had problems. I instead use a manual crimper (that was with the team before I joined, so I'm not sure if it's the one they offer - it's certainly a similar design).
Tools: Powerwerx's
crimper is to die for - it works on everything. For strippers, I have to recommend
Hansen Hobbies again, although they're out of the 10-22 variety. Unfortunately, their strippers are no longer color coded by "size" (our 10-22 is red, and the 14-26 blue).
This looks nice, but I've never used it, so I can't vouch for it. Get flush cutters (not dykes/diagonals - those are pseudo-flush cut); you can use them to trim leads, but also more importantly, zip ties (All Electronics carries them, but we bought ours using the Digikey PDV, although I'd expect that the ones All Electronics supplies is as reliable, if inferior quality). A multimeter (preferably small, like Digikey DM87C-ND or BK2700-ND; we use the latter). An ammeter is handy and important, but is arguably less critical. A small flathead screwdriver, for all the Wago terminals that we deal with.
Misc: Auto-reset fuses (20A/30A/40A, carried by
Andymark). Power inverter for whenever you need to run something that uses AC power off a FRC battery. Battery charger. Joysticks (or gamepads, whichever one you use).