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Originally Posted by team1165wins
We do not use ours too much (as per what I know). We do, once in a while, print a CAD Model of our entire robot. However, I think that 3D Printing is quite a great idea for FRC Robotics. ABS is very strong, strong enough for many heavily-used things. It also makes a great substitute to going to the shop to find the exact part. However, the technology has tremendous areas of improvement required. The resolution is not good enough for many applications where absolute accuracy is required. Also, the process is slow. The ABS is also dangerous. If it goes through too much stress and catches on fire, three toxic vapors are released, CO2, CO and HCN. A 3D Printer is just a very expensive injection moulding system that doesn't require a mould. I came up with the idea of a 3D printed stirling engine, running backwards, to test my design. After some research, this idea has been erased because of danger.
In Short: Do not use 3D printing in high friction or heat. Do not set alight on fire, and only use it where you know it will work. A milled aluminum piece will work way better.
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The plastic 3D printing (additive manufacturing) is not a "very expensive form of injection molding". These are two entirely different manufacturing processes. A 3D printed part will not have the same strength characteristics of injection molding. The most beneficial aspect of additive manufacturing is the production of complex geometries. There are some things you cannot make with injection molding since it is a process that relies on subtractive machining.
On a per-part prototype production run in low quantities, 3D printing is far more cost-effective, and for the hobbyist, the cost of most printers and a fair bit of material (dozens or hundreds of spools of filament) is cheaper than one mold.
Aesthetically, there could be improvement on the output of many of the 3D printers. Most are able to print at 0.1mm layer resolution. The accuracy really depends on the user calibrating the machine and fine tuning the machine for consistency. From a part design perspective, this may or may not be required. Like all manufacturing technologies, you have to understand the requirements for the part you are producing and its use to determine the best production technique.
I would sure hope no one intends to burn their plastic part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by team1165wins
I do not know what "color" is most discolor resistant because I have never used colored ABS, but however, white seems the best because even under deformation, there will be no effects. However, I thing a liitle bit of color could be helpful because it acts as an indicator for stress/strain/deformation.
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The comment on color is focused on the effects on plastic strength due to the dyes added. ABS is naturally a white color, so if the dyes reduced strength, the natural ABS would be the best choice for part strength in most cases. There is obviously more to the filament strength than the dyes: manufacturer, batch, moisture absorption, time on shelf, etc. all have an effect.