[Adam Krajewski]

We've had several problems with the drill motors.

The first incident was caused by the interaction between a motor lead and a polishing wheel. The result was a motor flying across the shop and a broken plastic brush assembly.

The second incident was caused by running the drivetrain for much too long, de-soldering one of the leads. I was not there to verify the validity of the claim, but I did see the botched "repair" job.

I eventually found a way to solder 10GA. leads AND avoid melting the plastic brush assembly.

In comparing the broken motor with a new one I noticed that the brushes are held by the assembly in three places (using Clark's picture as a reference): In the center between where the leads are attached and the braided copper wire via a small retaining nub, on the left via a slot with no retention, and on the right by another small retaining nub.

I was able to VERY CAREFULLY (as this assembly is quite fragile) push the brush in, down, and twist slightly clockwise on the left(using Clark's picture as a reference once again) to remove it from the motor.

With the brush safely removed from the motor, I was free to solder away. I use a technique I learned back in ’99 (from the Baxter Bomb Squad, if I remember right) and have used ever since for all drill and fisher price motors. I first tin the wire and connector tab and solder them together. Then I wrap the wire and connector tab with solid core 24GA. copper hook-up wire from end to end and coat the connection with more solder for a very solid hold. Finally, I shrink wrap the entire connection.

The brushes, once cool, can then be CAREFULLY slid back into the plastic assembly by lining up the left side with its channel and popping it back past the retaining nubs.

For broken assemblies, we've simply band-tied the brushes in place with much success.

We have not noticed any decrease in performance due to these modifications versus brand new motors with crimped connectors to the 16GA. leads.

Do this at your own risk with new motors, but you may be able to salvage broken motors this way.

I can take some pictures of the finished mounting if anyone is interested.

Adam