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In the videos, we commented out the gyro code, but the gyro was still attached. Would that affect the driving?
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There is no significant reason to electrically unhook it if you are
sure all of the code is commented out. I have found that I thought all code related to a sensor was removed and there was some hidden code 3 levels deep. Unplugging the sensor makes sure the cRio is not using the sensor (and helps find hidden code relating to said sensor)
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Unfortunately, we didn't document when we got the motors, so I'm not sure if they are the same vintage. However, the labels on the CIMs are different. There's a picture of it attached.
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We typically write the year of purchase on the rear of the CIM case in sharpie. We have seen that after a full season some motors don't have the same power response to a given voltage as brand new motors.
Did you try swapping out PWM ports?
Did you read the drive voltages put out by the Talons?
Did you try driving with just 2 motors at a time (I realize this is time consuming to swap them in and out)?
Another (crazy) thought
Is your left-right weight distribution equal? Are your wheels making equal contact with the carpet? Are the wheels of approximately the same Coefficient of Friction (i.e. same material, same wear)? What I am getting at here is that for an identical power transmitted from each gearbox to the left and right side wheels - is there something causing a different force to be applied at the left and right sides? From the video this does not appear to be the case.
I am not surprised that a tuned (or almost tuned) PID fixes the problem. The PID will drive the error to 0 if tuned correctly by correcting the PWM signals. However, I don't think you want to be at the competition and have your driver press forward on the controller and get a non-forward motion.
-matto-