[Al Skierkiewicz]

I am starting this thread in the Technical Discussion because there are more than just electrical issues that need to be corrected. So for all you team members out there, this thread is for you.
Here are some suggestions on how to prevent shooting yourself in the foot...

1. The WAGO connectors on the PD require 1/2"-5/8" of bare wire to terminate. This gives you the maximum amount of retention force and the minimum resistance.
2. Never "tin" the wire you use in a WAGO terminal, a screw terminal, or a crimp terminal prior to crimping. This increases the series resistance and often causes the wire to push out or loosen. Properly terminated, the WAGO terminal should have no bare wire showing and should resist the "tug" test. This holds true for other applications as well, FTC students I hope you are listening.
3. Using a smaller breaker does not limit the current going to that motor or load. It may cause the breaker to trip more often which may not be what you want.
4. Insulate electrical connections. At the top of the list, the battery, always, all the time. Metallic objects dropped onto the terminals of the battery can weld themselves in place. This includes neck chains, bracelets, tools, aluminum robot parts and the legs on the table in your pit.
5. Be careful with the PD, those are metric nuts and washers on the input side, not 1/4-20. Damage those and the PD becomes a very expensive paper weight.
6. Learn what the correct strip length is for the wire terminals you are using. If you do not remove the correct length, the wire will not be fully crimped with the terminal. A correctly crimped terminal actually "cold welds" the terminal and the wire. When you crimp you are forcing the wire and the terminal into a solid mass with no air spaces.
7. Never lift the battery with one hand or by the wires. I don't care if you lift weights and are really strong, the battery is 13 pounds of dead weight and it will move where and when it wants if you let it. Be the boss. Lifting by the wires will break the bond inside the battery. These batteries are designed to have a variety of different terminal types. They merely solder the terminal at the end of production and then pour the red and black plastic into the void to finish the manufacturing process. You can break the joint and never know it, until it fails in your last match on Einstein.
8. Loose hardware on the battery causes the robot to reboot, excessive heat at the terminals, and untold team frustration. Buy a bag or box of #10 external tooth lock washers. Place one lock washer between the wire terminal and battery terminal and then insert the screw, lock washer and nut as you would normally. The added lock washer will prevent the terminals from twisting against each other. It is this twisting that loosens the supplied locking hardware. Yes it may add a little series resistance to the connection but it bites through any surface crud on either terminal, and it locks the connection together.
9. There is no substitute for using a tool designed for the task at hand. That means if you need to add force to an object to get it to move, you use a hammer. Do not use the $100 crimp tool, the crescent wrench, or the gas pliers. If it doesn't move maybe you are doing it wrong or maybe you just need to get a bigger hammer. Learn to know the difference.
10. As always, there is no reason to have your safety glasses on the top of your head when you are working. Every person walking around with a ding in the lens will be willing to tell you how this simple $5 tool saved them from harm. Live safe, live long, pass on what you know. More to come...