[Mark McLeod]

So electrically, follow the trail looking for indicators that are not as they should be.
Some of this is obvious, but included to complete the detail for others.

• Verify that you are using a solenoid breakout (sets of two pins), rather than an analog breakout (sets of three pins). A standard 3-pin PWM cable will not fit a solenoid breakout (2-pin) without some modification or removal of the solenoid breakout protective cover.
• Use a multimeter to verify that the solenoid breakout pin 1 (signal-to-ground) and pin 2 (signal-to-ground) mirror just what the LEDs are doing. The signal pin should read 0v when the corresponding LED is off and 12/24v when the corresponding LED is on. Voltage should match what you wired into the breakout 12 or 24v, and that voltage should match the solenoid rating of course.
• Verify the solenoid wiring. Double solenoids have two sets of red/black wires. One set from each side. One red/one black connects to one pair of pins on the solenoid breakout. So solenoid breakout pin set 1 (red/black) will connect to one side of the double solenoid, while pin set 2 red/black connects to the opposing side.
• With a solenoid connected, each side of the solenoid should have an indicator light that also lights to match the Solenoid Module LEDs.
  • Disabled = no solenoid lights would be lit
  • Enabled = only one side of the solenoid should be lit at a time.
• Double check the polarity of the wiring to each side of the double solenoid. Reverse polarity will light the indicator, but won't fire the solenoid.