Thanks for the responses everyone. I am going to go through one by one with the posts.
Austin
If you didn't take a look already, it is 5052 for the aluminum alloy with all current components being .090 thick. I know you know that sponsors don't like bending 6061 just as much as the material itself. (If anyone doesn't know, 5052 is a more pliable material than 6061 as well as less likely to fracture. It's commonly used in FRC and other applications)
As for the front and back edges of the drive, this has crossed my mind numerous amounts of times since the beginning of this drive with how our 1/16 2x1 front cross members get destroyed every year. I do think, with some thought, I will make some bent member in there to support the loading seen at the corners. Honestly though, inserting a 2.5x2 inch piece of wood wouldn't be the worst option! I'll be taking a larger look at this now that the drive is done.
James
As Adam previously mentioned, the added support of the bellypan doesn't come from different methods of webbing. It's directly correlated to the cross-sectional area of the material that is there taking the load. With what Adam referenced, the cross-sectional area taking the load is directly related to the roughly 1" side of the 2x1 on the bellypan and mostly through the 2x1's themselves. For reference, many teams have used much more flexible materials for bellypans in the past. I know we used Garolite a few times as well.
Also, riv-nuts would be a solid option as to taking apart the base. I know its your preference but drilling out a rivet might be faster in some cases then unthreading a bolt.
Greg
My mistake on the 2x1. They should be .125 thick. A quick fix in Solidworks changed that and the step file in both the topic as well as the picture have been updated.
Bryce & Joe
Typically we have an extensive amount of wires that need to be ran all along our bellypan. The angles are 3/4 x 3/4 angle that protect those wires from the chain at all costs. Also they were used for guiding and organization purposes for the wires. I honestly could have left them out but I decided to throw them in last minute.
Joe, the battery plate could possibly use more support but right now I haven't taken a closer look and also haven't went through some "light" FEA to see stresses. I can certainly take a better look and adjust where necessary. Ideally, it would only be two more bends on each side with the same thickness or smaller to help support.
Michael & Austin
From what I saw by your posts, perpendicular definitely sounds the way to go since you're not acting on only the rivets and actually on the 2x1. I have a picture below that shows off the rendition I believe you both were trying to explain.
If this is exactly what you were looking at suggesting please let me know that way I can add it in and get this guy updated.
Alec
Thanks for the words buddy. Unfortunately, there is no major sponsor that we have for sheet currently. My old team did help us out in 2012 with some sheet parts but as of now the only resource we have used was one or two teams willing to help us out. If there was ever a sponsor that showed up with sheet capabilities, I would be certainly inclined to make this!
Just also wanted to point out that the bearing blocks are not exactly what 973 is accustomed to using. The picture below shows the blocks and that they are slightly similar to the VersaBlocks by WCP/Vex. I wanted to see what other geometries could be used in this situation to support the drive shafts.
However this isn't the best solution to drive bearing block design. I can only preach to the 973 standard because of the large advantages they provide. There are great benefits to it and I can't stress that enough.