[Jared]

Our team is considering a similar process.

Cory pointed out that runout can be an issue with these parts, so you may want to consider creating the sleeve OD and bearing bore on a lathe, then cutting this part in half and using each as one side. This way, you have matched sets of bearing blocks. Also be sure to use one of these round fixtures to locate the part when setting up on the CNC.

These likely wouldn't be difficult parts to make by hand if you were willing to give up the neat shape on the outside and the rounded corners on the 1.375" square.

The procedure I've come up with involves one 0.25" thick 3" x 3" fixture plate with a 1.375" wide square with .250" radiused corners for the square feature on the bearing blocks. The plate would also have two threaded 10-32 holes for the two mounting bolts in the bearing block.

My most efficient setup is as follows:

3" x 12" x 1.25" aluminum stock for 6 blocks (stock is extra tall so that the vice can grip the bottom 0.250")

1. Machine bearing bores, sleeve OD, rounded square feature on base, .196" holes for six bearing blocks.
For this operation, hold the stock in a vice (or two) so that the lowest point of the stock is about 0.25" below the face of the vice jaws.
Because the stock is a little bit oversize, zeroing only needs to be accurate to .050" or so.
Also, the bearing bore and the sleeve should have little runout as they are machined in the same operation.

2. Cut out individual blocks on bandsaw
Again, this doesn't need to be super accurate. It's good as long as you don't cut into another bearing block.

3. Put in lathe and face off 0.250" (the stock was .25" too tall)

4. Flip upside, put in fixture. The 1.375" square should fit nicely into the fixture plate, and you can put two 10-32's through the bearing block into the fixture plate to hold it down.
Now, locate part with a dial test indicator using the bearing bore. You should be able to get within .001" with a decent dial indicator. You shouldn't have to re-zero between bearing blocks if your fixture plate has good tolerances. It may be worth making the 10-32 clearance holes in the bearing blocks the next size down (0.1935") so that the fit more accurate with this fixture.

Now, machine the bearing flange c-bore and the outside profile. Use a countersink bit on a drill press for the two 0.196" holes.

You could honestly skip this last step and put in the bearing flange counterbore on a lathe and just the cut the outside profile on a bandsaw, and you could skip the fixture plate.

If my poorly written description doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll put up a picture.