Quote:
Originally Posted by R.C.
The better way to handle this is to use 3/8" Hex shaft and flip the bearing so the flanges are on the inside that way the bearing is geometrically retained.
Also if possible round down the shafts if possible so you can use a cheaper bearing etc...
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I agree, using 3/8 with rounded ends is pretty nice, simple, and light. You can also use the smaller 7/8 OD bearings.
All in all it looks really clean and nice. I came up with a similar design at the beginning of the season to mount our gearbox at the back of the frame but it did not end up looking nearly this nice haha.
My suggestions for minor improvement:
1. Use the 3/8 shaft mentioned previously for the first stage reduction.
2. Take advantage of the upper bolt on the lower cim for a standoff instead of having another hole solely for a standoff.
3. I wasn't able to download the model but make sure you have straight access to all your bolts on your CIMs. It'll make maintenance a lot easier but I'm sure you already thought of that.
4. Add additional mounting holes and bolts so that it isn't completely resting on the output shaft. (There might be something I'm missing but I can't see where else it would directly mount to the frame.
5. Also just an idea to consider, having only one plate that is repeated on both sides of the gearbox saves some time cadding, machine programming, and machining. However, it also adds a little bit of weight. So if you have the time making two plates is probably better, but if you are in a rush it may be better to forgo the second plate.