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Unread 06-02-2004, 00:31
kmcclary's Avatar
kmcclary kmcclary is offline
Founder 830/1015;Mentor 66/470/1502
FRC #0470 (Alpha Omega Robotics)
Team Role: Engineer
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Rookie Year: 1994
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 491
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Tests to run

Several possibilities:

First off, disconnect the two coils from the electronics, then momentarily pulse ONE coil with just the robot battery. This will set the spool to ONE of the two sides.

If that fixes it, you probably had both coils on at the same time. Check your wiring and software.
Remember, the two coils fight over one "spool rod". If they're both on at the same time, the position of the spool may be indeterminate (IOW it's possible for it to be "stuck in the middle", where you'll leak out of a port).

If it STILL leaks, keep it disconnected from the Spikes, disconnect the rod from what it is actuating, and check for problems in this order:

1) Wrong/missing/imporperly installed gasket, gasket leak, and/or connector leaks (use a mild detergent/water mix or "bubble fluid" for testing, and it'll bubble wherever you have a leak.)

2) Incorrect plumbing to the double solenoid.

The three holes on one side, in order, are:
- Exhaust 1 (no connection)
- Primary Pressure (Air Input from regulator)
- Exhaust 2 (no connection).

Each of the two holes on the other side go to one of the two ends of your cylinder via a Flow Control fitting mounted DIRECTLY on the cylinder's air opening. The flow control fittings are Metered Out. This means when mounted directly to a cylinder that the air flows INTO the cylinder FREELY, but the needle valve controls the rate the air LEAVES the cylinder. Think of it as a rate control for rod motion TOWARD that needle valve.

3) Something obstructing one of the air outlet paths.

The kit valves are AIR PILOTED. If you do not maintain a SIGNIFICANT differential air pressure across the valve, the spool rod may NOT switch fully, leaving you with a LEAK out of an air port.

Once you have checked that the plumbing is correct, there are no leaks, and the exhaust is unobstructed, temporarily disconnect the cylinder from the air outputs and set your regulator to a about 30 PSIG. Manually test each coil in sequence by pulsing it with the robot battery. You should hear a click each time, and air should first come out of one of the two ports on the "two hole" side, then the other. Turn off the air and depressurize the system.

Now, set the cylinder to 1/2 stroke. Turn the flow controls on the ends of the cylinder WAY IN, *gently* tight, THEN reconnect the cylinder. Refill the system, and set the regulator to at least 30 PSIG. Slowly open each flow control a small but equal amount until the cylinder starts steadily moving toward one end. Let it do this, and complete the stroke.

Now, as you pulse each coil with the battery, the cylinder's rod should gently move from one end to the other.

Once THAT is working, THEN reconnect the coils to your electronics.

NOW, check each coil with a DC voltmeter, to insure you are only turning one on at a time.

Once the electronics are working, NOW reconnect it to your mechanics, and set your cylinder's flow controls where you wish them to be.

Let me know how these tests worked out for you.

- Keith
__________________
Keith McClary - Organizer/Mentor/Sponsor - Ann Arbor MI area FIRST teams
ACTI - Automation Computer Technologies, Inc. (Sponsoring FIRST teams since 2001!)
MI Robot Club (Trainer) / GO-Tech Maker's Club / RepRap-Michigan) / SEMI CNC Club
"Certifiably Insane": Started FIVE FRC teams & many robot clubs (so far)!
2002: 830 "Rat Pack" | 2003-5;14: 1015;1076 "Pi Hi Samurai" | 2005-6: 1549 "Washtenuts"/"Fire Traxx"
2005-(on): 1502 "Technical Difficulties" | 2006-(on): FIRST Volunteer!
2009-(on): 470 "Alpha Omega" | WAFL | Sponsor & "Floating Engineer" for MI Dist 13 (Washtenaw Cnty)
2011: 3638 "Tigertrons" | 2013-(on): 4395 "ViBots" | 2014-(on) 66 "Grizzlies"
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