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Originally Posted by Mark McLeod
A safe method is to simply use a DPDT switch from Radio Shack and a 9 volt battery ignoring the power pin altogether. Hook up the competition port pins to one side of the switch and an LED/resistor/9volt to the isolated DPDT pins on the other side of the switch. When the switch is "on" the LED will also be "on", but the LED is actually on a separate circuit powered by the 9v battery.
This is probably the normal method most teams use for LEDs on the OI.
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Okie doke...so now my wiring diagram has grown to this...(see attached)
A note on the switches...I was thinking, and while it's smart to have a nice, big, mash-the-red-button-to-stop-that-robot disable button, it isn't as good for autonomous mode, as then if you mash it, you'll probably be disabling the sucker anyways. So I figure that the disable switch will be alternate action (either DPDT, or perhaps two separate switches activated by the same button), and then the autonomous switch would be more light-switchy in activation. (I wired in the LED so that you can tell pretty easily whether or not the disable switch is activated without having to decipher the OI. Maybe I'll make it a buzzer, to make it really obvious. Saves having to troubleshoot the stupid stuff, I figure.)
Although, given my tackling by our robot when it leapt into autonomous the last build night, I'm tempted to take a cue from our ROTC corps' F-16 simulator and make it like the nuclear consent switches--you know, lift the flap that holds it off, and THEN you get to flip the switch and launch the nukes. Or start autonomous mode. Your choice.
Switch choices and ergonomics of the box aside, any comments on the updated wiring scheme?