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Originally Posted by Holtzman
I just skimmed the other two threads, and didn't see anything about this(correct me if I'm wrong), but instead of putting 8 lightening holes in each plate, why don't you just use thinner plates? I'd suggest 3/16 for the CIM side, and 1/8 for the sprocket side.
That will take out more weight than all your lightening holes, and save you time in the process.
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I would like to keep both plates the SAME. It's 4 pounds each gearbox. I am not worried.
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Originally Posted by cdr1122334455
My only question, are you gearing it again after the sprocket that you put on the output shaft?
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Yes there will be a 24 tooth sprocket on the 4" wheels. If you would like to use a different diameter of the wheel, you will need to play with the numbers.
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Originally Posted by Sanddrag
The same is true for all the cutouts in the plates (assuming the material will be removed with an endmill).
Also, I still think this can be made a good bit smaller/lighter/cheaper (about $40 in two gearboxes). Here's how.
Keep the 12T gears on the CIMs and have them both meshing with a 40T gear (instead of the 60T). Then the 40T gear meshes with the current 30T gear (no change). This concludes high gear. The CIMs will just barely fit side by side but they should definitely fit (I calculate .080 between them).
Then on the same shaft as the new 40T gear, put a 25T gear (to replace the current 45T gear there). It meshes with the current 45T dog gear. (no change) this concludes low gear.
So basically, replace the 60T with a 40T and replace the 45T non-dog-gear with a 25T.
This will give you a difference of 2.4:1 between high and low gear as opposed to your current Version Three 2:1 difference. The 2.4:1 difference could give you something like 13fps and 5.4fps.
Of course you will have to redesign your plates for the new center to center distances, but you seem to whip out new versions very quickly so I don't think it would be much of a problem.
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I only asked for suggestions how to make "THIS" gearbox look better. Not how to make a WHOLE NEW GEARBOX. I am not planning on changing the gears. If I mesh a 40 tooth gear with the 12s on the CIM (both)... I am concerned that the CIM motor cases will be conflicting with the bearing (on the plate) on the 40 tooth gear.
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Originally Posted by Sanddrag
I know the AndyMark transmission uses .090 plates.
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Andy uses .090 steel plate and then he bends it so you can mount it on the chassis.
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Originally Posted by JVN
It is impossibly to cut sharp corners. In the corner of each of your pockets, there needs to be a radius of at LEAST the radius of your cutter.
(If you are using a 1/4" dia end-mill, you need a 1/8" Radius in each corner... If you are using a waterjet with a minimum radius of .02", you need to put that in each corner.)
I would throw down a 1/8" Radius, so it can be cut with a 1/4" Mill.
But then again... I usually just ask my machinists what they want to use, then throw that in there. (I am a sub-par machinist at best.)
Since everyone seems to be picking on your "square holes" you might as well fix this, and get 'em all to shut up!
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That's the only other change I am going to make in this transmission. The plates. Make it easier to machine. Add radius to every single corner. After the plates are changed I am going replace current picture with the new one, because I don't want the forum to loaded up with all my transmission pictures. Thanks John for the suggestion.
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Originally Posted by Sanddrag
Of course you will have to redesign your plates for the new center to center distances, but you seem to whip out new versions very quickly so I don't think it would be much of a problem.
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It's called not having the best time in your life for the past few days, and you want to keep your mind off of things.
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Originally Posted by team222badbrad
Good work.
With all this Inventor experience, no you can draw up a whole robot, maybe you already have??
Just curious did you have Inventor taught to you or did you learn it by yourself/tutorials?
I am also wondering about the gears, maybe you have already answered this in another thread/post, but did you draw the gears?
If so how, I know making gears is not fun! 
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Been there done that. Team 108's 2005 robot was drawn in inventor by me. I also designed another robot that I proposed as a design. No I didn't draw the gears. It's VERY hard to draw each gear. I got them from Bostongear and Firstcadlibrary. I got it out of there and then made modifications. Actually Mike (punkrawker303) told me how to make holes and and draw/sketch/extrude in Inventor. Then I pretty much taught myself.
I apologize if any part of this post offended anyone, I am not in the best mood today (didn't sleep for more than 35 hours). I know I shouldn't be taking it out here, but I do have to answer the questions.