Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Skierkiewicz
We used this method on a few robots, the first I think was back in '97 or '98. The only drawback is when you run out of adjustment room, you have to remove a link in the chain. So the adjustment range needs to be a little greater than one link in length.
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Yes -- this is being added to an existing design that has well-tensioned chain because of the sprocket's center-center distances. Still, adjustment is .375" for #25 chain; One and a half links.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHeard
Are you doing this within one frame member like 968 in 2006, or 60 in various years; or are you doing it like 114?
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It's going into a single bearing block in something evocative of the "west coast drive". My concern for the bolt size is because the bearing block is plastic and we'll need more contact area on the threads to keep loading in a reasonable place, so we have to increase bolt size or the number of threads engaged. It's easier to achieve the former.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Skierkiewicz
When in doubt use a locking nut to prevent any movement. Loss of tension can be disasterous.
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I am hoping to get away with a nylon bolt, so I don't know how much use a locking nut will be for us in that case. When everything is assembled, there will be no access to anything on the inside -- including a locking nut -- so that gives me pause, as well.
We were considering a method of capturing the bolt head and preventing it from rotating, but it's a bit of challenge to devise such a system that allows enough flexibility in where the bolt head lies to make using this for tensioning practical.