Quote:
Originally Posted by spazdemon548
It looks great. I would be concerned with the tension bolt loosening. Instead of using a bolt for tensioning, you cold use a threaded rod with a hex insert at the end for an allen wrench. Then by tapping the end plate on your 2x1 extrusion, you can put another nut on so it would be double nutted.
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We used a similar system in the 07 season, and have never had any issues with the bolt backing out or loosening. Doing the other setup is actually more parts, and more machining needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by M. Krass
I think this is where you'll end up on the next iteration, Craig. The concept is sound, as I see it, and it's pretty much where I ended up a few weeks ago -- though I'm probably a few iterations farther down the road and I'm interested to see if we end up in the same place.
Also, the extant model has far more space for adjustment in the frame rail than the screw provides. You can narrow the opening to the length of your required adjustment -- .25" for #25 chain and .375" for #35.
For what reason are you intending to press your bearings in to the outside of the bearing block? I think you could change that a bit and end up with bearing blocks that can be cut in one op. instead of two.  |
I've been trying to work on a one op setup, but I'm not sure exactly how to do it yet. The reason for putting the bearings on the outside is to allow as much stability on the axle as possible, which still keeping the setup as small as possible. As for the adjustment size, you have to be a lot more precise with your chain length if you shorten the adjustment size. We prefer to keep as much precision out of something like that as possible, for when you need to do those hasty repairs in between matches. Instead of only 1 link of travel, we prefer to have at least 3 to 5, so it's simple to swap out when we need to.
The next iteration should be 1 op, we'll see how that goes.
Thanks for the feedback!