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Unread 14-02-2008, 01:24
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Re: pic: Team 125 sideplate close-up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody1458 View Post
Hey Iw as just wondering because you guys have obviously done it well, how do you mount bearings? Our team is having a lot of problems with them falling out, we tried hammering them in to barely too small holes but that would only last about a day, and epoxy cant take the stress.
Press fit tolerances and flanges, all built into the original design.
For press fitting, Dan (above) has the correct dimension. Use an Arbor press to press (finesse) in the bearing, not a hammer which could lead to eccentricity and bearing damage.

You can capture and un-flanged bearing with two small bolts on either side of the bearing hole. If the bolts are close enough the the hole the heads of the bolts will extend over that area of the bearing hole limiting the travel in that direction. If you need more wall thickness for the new bolt holes than the proximity a normal bolt head would provide, drill the holes (to be tapped) farther away from the bearing hole and extend their "covering reach" with washers. If space allows this can be done on both sides of a bearing (if necessary), with 4 total holes and 4 total bolts, all ideally at 90 degrees from each other.

Lets say our drive train bearing pictured was not flanged. The only direction it would be able to move in our configuration would be out (away from the wheel) because of the full shaft on the other side. We could drill 2 #6-32 tap holes 180 degrees from each other around the bearing hole and tap to thread in the bolts. In this hypothetical scenario the bearing is thicker than the side plate so it leaves a lip that is not flush with the outside, so we can't tighten down to flush. Some of the things that can be done from here:
1.Locktight the bolts at given depth and voila.
2.Have the holes placed further away, toss a washer onto each bolt and thread a nut on them to keep the washers fixed on each bolt, then tighten down as far as you can (providing the the thickness of the nut is the ideal offset from inner washer face to outer side plate face. I would still suggest locktight in the later scenario for lack of a locking nut on the other side of the bolt.

That was a book on a simple explanation, a good break from thermodynamics though

//We molded the urethane onto the delrin ourselves. Brandon can describe the process and details as that was one of his (many) project leads for the students.
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Last edited by henryBsick : 14-02-2008 at 01:31.
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