[Russ Beavis]

How about using the wall wart that came with the wireless adapter and seeing if you get the same periodic comm failures? It's obviously not very mobile but at least gives you another data point.

If you decide to check the power supply output voltage, you'll want to be careful with interpreting noise. When the battery is > 12V, battery voltage will be passed almost directly to the adapter. When the battery is < about 8V, the boost converter will do a decent job of producing a smooth 12V output.

When the battery is between 8 and 12V, the output will have a bit more noise than you might be expecting. In this region, the boost converter cannot operate very efficiently. The input stage on the wireless adapter, however, has been shown to be very tolerant to this 1 or 2V pk-to-pk ripple.

When the wireless adapter browns out (ie it's input power supply voltage goes below about 5V which is WELL below the output noise on the "boost-ish" supply), we have seen them lock up and require a hard reboot to recover. This is why I was suspicious about whether you were using the intended output on the PD.

Without seeing your setup, I'm suspecting that the "boost-ish" supply in the PD isn't functioning as intended. If you've got a multimeter and a bench supply, measure the supply's output while varying the PD's input. You should see the converter working to maintain a constant 12V supply. Also, does the PD whine (typically due to the wireless adapter's 12V boost-ish supply but also a little due to the 24V cRIO boost converter)?

Russ