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Unread 29-05-2009, 13:37
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AKA: Mark Kramarczyk
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Re: Team Trailer Ideas?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepWater View Post
Can you provide more information on how you would install the E-Track flush please? We were planning to screw plywood back to the inside walls and then attach the E-Track to the plywood but that would leave the E-Track raised on top of the plywood. Are you suggesting we attach the E-Track directly to the metal wall substructure first and then fit horizontal strips of plywood between the E-Track to make the metal surface of the E-Track more or less flush with the plywood?
While I haven't done any install myself, if I had my options open like you do I, I would install the track first to the trailer structure (as seen here) and then put up the plywood. I would probably attach the plywood to the e-track sections with some rivets. Of course, I don't actually know what the wall construction of your trailer is either. The guys at etrailer can probably provide better guidance.

Quote:
Is this how others do it? We certainly understand the need for securing the load and want to plan well and do it right!
How you pack is dependent on a lot of things such as, how full your trailer will be, weight of items, and what order you need to use things when they come off the trailer. e.g. don’t put the legs for your pit workbenches in nose of the trailer.

If the trailer is not going to be too full, you can flat pack (everything on the floor) and group items to the side walls if you like. If it is not an obvious easy pack, start wall to wall, floor to ceiling, from the very beginning. Heavy stuff low... high efficiency stuff first (no sailboat fuel)... the case dimensions from earlier help out a lot. Even knowing 2 of these + 1 of those goes across the trailer helps. It is really easy to pack less efficiently if the situation looks good; starting over because you left air in the nose is painful.

As far as load control goes, in my experience items shift in two ways. Towards the nose during decel and towards the ground due to vibration. My advice is get stuff as close to the nose and group it as a monolith. If the item is already strapped as far forward as it can go then slamming on the breaks is a non-event. (not that I recommend it) Likewise if things are in a single large pile, then if they happen to fall it is not as far to the next item. Before you strap the pile down, look for items likely to shift... and what they may shift into.

One last thing, not that this is much of an issue in a 6x10 trailer, but don't make your pile any larger than the people in the trailer can handle shifting as it is loaded/unloaded. I find that to be about every 8'. Once you hit that size, it is advisable to strap the load and install a flat surface to start packing against. I like load bars for this purpose. It should be noted that these are clipped into the e-track and have essentially no outward load on the trailer walls unlike the compression installed bars referred to earlier in this thread. Once these are in, start the packing logic all over again just like in the nose.

With all of this being said it should also be noted that my wife does not like how I pack the car for family trips.

Quote:
I guess our "standard" tub size right now are the tubs we all get with the KoP simply because we have collected quite a few of them over the years.
A bird in the hand...
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Brick walls are for other people. - Randy Pausch
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