A properly designed and CNC machined drive train shouldn't need chain adjustment once the chain stretches. If careful attention is paid to ensure the sprockets are well aligned with an easy to use chain tensioner, then there should never be any broken/popped chains as long as you aren't exceeding the maximum force of the weakest link in the roller chain. A master link is only 60% of the strength of a regular link, but you can eliminate the need for master link if you use a tool like the DarkSoul chain breaker.
Also, you really should put the transmission on the center wheel, and drive the front and rear wheels via roller chains. It all comes down to reliability. In the odd chance a chain does fail, losing the chain between the rear wheel and center wheel would also take out the front wheel from the picture as well. By moving the transmission to direct-driving the center wheel, losing a single chain means only losing a single wheel. And because the center wheel can never lose power if a chain breaks, you'll still be able to drive whether you're tipped to the front or back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesCH95
Just a thought: some nuts like these fastened on the inside of your drive modules might be a great way to tie components/chassis elements together.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/nut_anchor.html
I realize Aircraft Spruce isn't the cheapest place to buy things, but it's the first source that came to mind. |
PEM nuts are simpler and can be pressed in at the sheet metal shop.