610's Preseason Drive

[Avram Kachura]

This year for our pre-season drive train, we wanted to take a different approach to our design. Instead of having a 2 stage gearbox, we wanted to make it simpler by making a single stage 5:1 reduction using VexPro 60 and 12 tooth gears. We then used #25 sprockets to increase our reduction from 5:1 to 7.9 :1 using 14 and 22 teeth sprockets. We also decided to run the chain lengths inside the frame of our drive train to make it easier to assemble and access. As for the frame of the drive train, we decided on having the wheels inserted in a 2.5 inch box channel leaving the wheels enclosed and neatly tucked inside the drive train opposed to having it cantilevered or outside of our frame. Our estimate speed is 11.7 ft/second. reaching it in 1.8 seconds.

Drive train specifications:
- 6 wheel (Colson 4 inch)
- 4 motor gearbox (Designed for 6)
- 7.9:1 gear reduction
- # 25 chain



http://imgur.com/a/iORYt
http://imgur.com/TQQR3zn

[Nate Laverdure]

Looks real nice. Is that a new iteration of your perpendicular tube joinery technique?

[Avram Kachura]

Yes, it is held together by 1 threaded rod and 2 slots cut out on the CNC Mill
for alignment. http://imgur.com/a/ldUfC

[GeeTwo]

What are the lozenge-shaped bits of clear plastic inboard of the front (nearest camera) wheels? Encoder mounts?

[Avram Kachura]

Those are encoder mounts.

[GeeTwo]

Originally Posted by Avram Kachura

Yes, it is held together by 1 threaded rod and 2 slots cut out on the CNC Mill
for alignment. http://imgur.com/a/ldUfC

Why was this piece made with the large flange? It appears to me that you could have used a smaller piece of stock and put all three holes inside the depression. With the belly pan installed, the large flange does not seem to be necessary to provide right-angle rigidity.

Also, when we used threaded rod to provide tension on a project a couple of years ago, we found it neater to use two bolts, two threaded coupling nuts, and a length of threaded rod a few inches shorter than the run, all of the same thread/pitch. This is less likely to snag on other parts, as there are no protruding bolt ends, just a hex head or socket cap.
Edit: This solution would obviously not work on your three-roll-pins-plus-rod method, but should do well with the rod running down the middle like this.

[Avram Kachura]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

Why was this piece made with the large flange? It appears to me that you could have used a smaller piece of stock and put all three holes inside the depression. With the belly pan installed, the large flange does not seem to be necessary to provide right-angle rigidity.

Also, when we used threaded rod to provide tension on a project a couple of years ago, we found it neater to use two bolts, two threaded coupling nuts, and a length of threaded rod a few inches shorter than the run, all of the same thread/pitch. This is less likely to snag on other parts, as there are no protruding bolt ends, just a hex head or socket cap.
Edit: This solution would obviously not work on your three-roll-pins-plus-rod method, but should do well with the rod running down the middle like this.

The reason we have long edge is because there is a slot extruded out of it to fit into a slot cut out on the box channel. It was a little excessive, but we wanted it for alignment.

[RobotsThatWork]

Looks really neat

A quick question for you: With all the holes on the top of your box tubing, how do you plan to mount superstructures to this drivetrain? will you just remove some of the pocketing? or do you have some other plan?

[Avram Kachura]

Originally Posted by RobotsThatWork

Looks really neat

A quick question for you: With all the holes on the top of your box tubing, how do you plan to mount superstructures to this drivetrain? will you just remove some of the pocketing? or do you have some other plan?

Yes, we can easily remove pocketing when machining if we wish to mount other subsystems on top of the drive train.

[Ty Tremblay]

Why use threaded rod across the entire width of the robot instead of nuts and bolts?

[GeeTwo]

Originally Posted by Ty Tremblay

Why use threaded rod across the entire width of the robot instead of nuts and bolts?

That's what's holding the two sides of the robot together. They aren't using any gussets or other brackets that attach to both the cross-tubing and the wheel tubes*. If they used nut & bolt at each end, the cross tubing would slide right off of the milled piece linked from post #3.

Edit:
* except the belly pan.

[notmattlythgoe]

I like it. If you went to 3" box would there be enough room to move the chains inside the tube also? Or even using the .875" colsons?

[Nate Laverdure]

Originally Posted by Ty Tremblay

Why use threaded rod across the entire width of the robot instead of nuts and bolts?

This is clearer when you consider the 2013 design. There was no machined inner block** that could have accepted any shorter fasteners. In that design, you use the whole end face of the ladder bar as a bearing surface to take any bending loads.

The ladder bar is a preloaded spacer. Because the threaded rod is so long, the spring rate is very low, which makes it possible to maintain big preloads on the rod, and therefore big clamping forces on the assembly.

**The opposite approach is taken in the 221 SimpleTube chassis... they use machined inner blocks to connect the ladder bars to the chassis rails.

[Ty Tremblay]

Originally Posted by GeeTwo

That's what's holding the two sides of the robot together. They aren't using any gussets or other brackets that attach to both the cross-tubing and the wheel tubes*. If they used nut & bolt at each end, the cross tubing would slide right off of the milled piece linked from post #3.

Edit:
* except the belly pan.

If they used a nut and bolt on each end, yeah. But that wouldn't make much sense...

My question was why not modify the milled piece such that machine screws can be used.

Originally Posted by Nate Laverdure

This is clearer when you consider the 2013 design. There was no machined inner block** that could have accepted any shorter fasteners. In that design, you use the whole end face of the ladder bar as a bearing surface to take any bending loads.

The ladder bar is a preloaded spacer. Because the threaded rod is so long, the spring rate is very low, which makes it possible to maintain big preloads on the rod, and therefore big clamping forces on the assembly.

**The opposite approach is taken in the 221 SimpleTube chassis... they use machined inner blocks to connect the ladder bars to the chassis rails.

Thanks. I understand how it works.

I'm asking why that method was chosen mostly because there IS an inner block in this chassis that could have been designed to accept shorter fasteners. Granted, would have taken an additional setup or two in the mill.

[Brian_R]

Originally Posted by Ty Tremblay

I'm asking why that method was chosen mostly because there IS an inner block in this chassis that could have been designed to accept shorter fasteners. Granted, would have taken an additional setup or two in the mill.

The long fasteners allow the whole tube to be preloaded compressively. This should give some additional rigidity and resistance to bending, which I'd find pretty useful in a chassis member that might get some good impacts in defense situations.

Screwing into the end caps only would be much lighter, but you lose the preload. I wish we had thought of that in 2014...