Tools for Rookie Team?

[aZnXsa1Nt]

Hey, this is Mark from the rookie Mission San Jose Robotics Team 1045.

We are currently in the process of obtaining tools and parts, and I was wondering if anyone could provide a comprehensive list of tools that are usually used in the process of constructing the robot. I would greatly appreciate any assistance on this topic. Thanks.

[sanddrag]

I'll be able to help you with this in a few days. I'm really busy right now. Send me a PM if you want me to make up a list for you.

[Kevin Sevcik]

just a thought, but wouldn't this post go better in the Q&A section? And PMing a list to one individual is hardly helpful to the community. I'm sure there's tons of teams that need to know this kind of thing.

[Andy Baker]

Here is a list of tools to have for building a FIRST robot:

Minimum needed:
----------------------
Wrenches: socket, allen, open-ended
Pliars: needle-nosed, adjustible, and vice-grips
Screwdrivers: Philips (large & small), regular (large & small)
Hacksaw
File (flat and rat-tail)
Side cutters (small and large)
Tin snips
Wire stripper
Wire crimper
Center punch or punch set
Hammer
Drill bits
Taps
Tap handle
Ruler
Calipers
Tape measure
Cable ties
Electrical tape
Duct tape (even though you can't use it on the robot, you will still need this)
Corded power drill
Cordless drill
Dremel w/ accessories
Soldering iron
Voltmeter
Level
Square (for getting right angles)
Vice

Other stuff that makes things easier:
----------------------------------------------
Label maker
Sheet metal break
Sheet metal shear
Grinder
Sander (disk and belt)
Lathe
Mill
Drill Press
Welder (able to weld aluminum and/or steel)
Band saw (the bigger the better)
Chop saw (horizontal band saw)

Also... there are other things to consider when you are going to a competition. I attached an Excel file which lists that stuff.

There may be more to this list... please add to it if you see fit, of course.

Andy B.

[Lloyd Burns]

Perhaps a Q&A question, but...

beside the screwdrivers necessary for whatever type you choose, and drill bits and drivers, and a huge hammer for when frustration gets high :-), you might get by with these -

.carpenters square - things positioned well, work better
.measuring tape
.six-in electronic caliper
.scribe for marking and...
.black magic marker or machinist ink to lay out before cutting
.vice, *securely* mounted, bigger than 4"
.hacksaw with lots of new blades.
.files
,set of Allen Keys for existing setscrews
.V-block for drilling radially into round things
.weight scale - to check before the end of week 3
.wrench set - open ended types work fine on pneumatics and on nuts if you don't have a ...
.set of nut drivers
.locking jaw pliers in several sizes
.clamps - several sets of several sizes
.wire cutter-crimper (have come in past kits) - the importance of a good crimping cannot be over-emphasized. For stripping, a utility knife is quite often as useful as automatic strippers. AVOID the stamped/riveted cutter-stripper-crimper sold in kits with crimp-on connectors - 'useless' doesn't begin to describe a slightly used pair.
.hand held drill - we have several cordless ones (all at the *same* voltage - we have 12 V, which means we can test a motor with the drill batteries if needed)

very useful advances are :
drill press - (preferably with a vice, and a cross vice is even better)
band saw - with a "rip fence" and a miter guide

handy, but not essential for rookie teams, items include
lathe
mill
These need someone who's used them before to be *safe*, let alone useful. They are expensive, and if the team owns them, they need storage.


A telephone directory, tabbed with pages of suppliers of services (as mentioned elsewhere, now would be a good time to talk to them, see who can work with you, who might sponsor you ...)

Using the aluminum extrusion for framing saves time and machining (we've used Bosch, others use different manufacturers). It comes with maker-specific corner fasteners and t-nuts for fastening to the sides of the extrusion, Make sure you always have the tightening tools. Always Think Triangles, and don't be afraid to put some of your screws right into the centre part of the extrusion axially and radially to act as pins (no sideways movement.

Decide on a single size screw for fastening non-extrusion metal - we used #8 - so there is only one screwdriver size (especially important if you use a socket head (Robertson (the square one) is our favourite, but there's Allen and Torx). Use slot or Phillips if you want scratches and damage around the screws (why does Bob Villa get paid to advertise screw removers for Sears, and they only show slot and Phillips being mangled enough to
require the removers ?)

Naturally, every piece of supplied equipment needs a different size nut or screw, but keep it to a minimum, and paint the fasteners which are not your chosen size, and the tools too, so that between two bouts thoughtfully scheduled two minutes apart, you won't waste time finding the right one for the job.

Forget not the importance of lockwashers on nearly every screw, and be tempted not by permanent Lock-Tite, lest ye find ye must disassemble, yea that ye must *constantly* disassemble, a certain connection that was supposed to be final.

Number Two Tool is a space of your own to meet in, to build in, and to test in. Also needed is access to a space with a level hard floor, with height enough to raise the robot, and to allow lobbing of projectiles (a gymnasium is excellent).

Number One tool is money. Getting there isn't half the fun, but it's at least as expensive as staying there. Money for "Additional Hardware" is essential. And buy extra material for construction; someone will make a mistake, or some one will decide on a different vision halfway through the build phase ...

This is not as complete as it might be, but it could be a start. There are probably any number of White Papers on the subject - explore Chief Delphi's board and use it as a library.

HYHelps

[Ken Loyd]

For the final week of the building season I would add:

a cot
a pillow
a blanket
mass quanities of Mountain Dew

Ken Loyd
Team 64

[white_ChocOlat8]

Originally Posted by Ken Loyd

For the final week of the building season I would add:

a cot
a pillow
a blanket
mass quanities of Mountain Dew

Ken Loyd
Team 64

lol nice

[NateBot16]

For drill bits I would recomend titinium bits. They are more expensive, but you don't need to sharpen them much and they look pretty and shinny, which is oviously very important.

I would also recomend a flash light. For some reason when working under our robot last year, I couldn't see a thing.

[Adam Y.]

Emery cloth- I thnk that is what it is called. Sandpaper for metal.
Tap Set- Useful for creating threads in holes
I have also heard my advisor mention something about a step drill bit. I forget what it is used for.

[sanddrag]

Originally Posted by Adam Y.

I have also heard my advisor mention something about a step drill bit. I forget what it is used for.

Step drills are actually pretty useful. You see them used all the time on "American Chopper"

[Jay H 237]

After reading this thread I thought of three more things to have that I haven't seen mentioned. A deburrer for removing burrs off of machined parts especially since some burrs can be so sharp you can cut yourself and not know it right away. Second a helicoil set for stripped treads. It basically consists of the helicoils (which are "springs" you insert into the stripped hole and the "spring" becomes the new thread), a drill bit which opens the hole up to the helicoil size, and the installation tool for the helicoils. This will save you when you strip a hole and you don't have time or ability to remachine a part like at competition and believe me it WILL happen sooner or later. It's also a good idea to use them in the begining on all plastic parts (delrin, polycarbonate, plexi-glass, HPDE, ect.) that require a tapped hole. Just keep in mind you will need different size helicoils for each of the different threads that are used and they don't repair stripped screws but then again a screw is easy to replace compared to a part. Our team only has them kept in our toolbox in 1/4" (or 5mm) and under since your most likely to strip smaller holes. It's also not recommended to use Loctite with them. And now finally third, counter sinks for counter sinking flat head screws and can also be used for deburring holes.

[laditek]

Yes Adam, a step drill bit for making holes larger to lighten the bot in crunch time. I believe it was 50 1" holes equal a pound.

Originally Posted by Adam Y.

Emery cloth- I thnk that is what it is called. Sandpaper for metal.
Tap Set- Useful for creating threads in holes
I have also heard my advisor mention something about a step drill bit. I forget what it is used for.

[Katie Reynolds]

As far as tools to bring to the competition, check out page 6 of Section 10 of the manual.

[ChrisH]

A good scale is essential. During build we get estimates for system weight, weigh the actual hardware for subsystems before installation, track projected vs actual weight continuosly, and then weigh the final product.

Typically our estimated weight is 0.5-1 lb off the actual weight. It really is hard to estimate the wires, as they are cut to length on installation and once installed we don't want to take them out.

The easiest way to reduce weight is to keep it off in the first place.

An extensive Med Kit is a very helpful tool for the accident prone victims of your team