speed controller for fisher price

[Aren_Hill]

i am converting my ofna pirate 10 to and electric because the engine always gave me problems and i have 2 fisher price motors i plan to use both of, I am just wondering if there are any cheaper speedcontrollers than a victor 884

[sanddrag]

The victor is the only thing that comes to mind that would handle both motors unless you build your own. If you want it to be forward only and controlled by a servo actuated pot, then it is actually fairly easy to build your own. It probably isn't too much harder to build your own with reverse and pwm input. How many cells do you plan to run? A Novak Super Rooster would probably do it but it is just as much as a victor. Actually, my recommendation would be to get a used (but with guarantee) Novak EVX off of eBay and run two stick pack for 14.4 volts. That's your best option since that ESC is made for two batteries and two motors and you'll get awesome performance. Should be able to get it for about $60-$90

What problems were you having with the nitro engine? Was it an ofna engine? They are notorious for air leaks. I've had alot of troubles with mine as well (TRX Pro .15). I was almost ready to sell the thing. But then I finally figured it out and now it starts every time and runs great.

Nitro engines can be quite reliable with the proper tuning and starting procedures. Let me know fi you need any help if you want to stay with nitro.

PS. I'm going to be starting on a weedwhacker powered RC simply for purposes of reliability.

[rufu5]

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/mark...ntrollers.html

that is a wide array of speed controllers, vantac is usually pretty cheap but you need to make sure it will handle your voltage and amperage requirements

[John Gutmann]

You should be able to use like a futaba, or likea XL-1 or XL-10 depending on what the current the motor draws is and if it isn't brushless.

I have TONS or MSC (Mechanical Speed Controllers) if you need any. Just PM me.

[Aren_Hill]

i've just decided to try using a drill motor from a dewalt instead since one motor seems like it'll give plenty of power. As far as mechanical or electrical speed controllers i want to be able to brake and reverse the motor so i can stick with my 2 channel radio
i'm probably going to end up buying a victor because i know they are reliable and i can use it with a single drill motor or the 2 fischer prices and i'll be able to use it for other things.

i'm wondering what i'll need for batteries will 1 stick pack be enough for a decent runtime or should i wire 2 in parallel?

I'm doing this because 1. my engines is unreliable
2. i have some motors sitting around and want to explore the electrical side of things

so if i can find a mechanical speed controller that has breaking and reverse and smooth operation i could use that

thanks,
aren

p.s sanddrag do you think the novak rooster would work for the drill motor?

[John Gutmann]

From what I remember, victors only use a unique PWM signal that you can only create with IFI controllers.

Correct me if I am wrong.

[fimmel]

they can be used w/ any pwm that has the correct timeing.

[sanddrag]

I don't know if hobby RC receivers will give the proper signal to work with a victor. It says they are not for use with hobby RC equipment. There is a "signal driver" cable at the bottom of this page http://www.robotmarketplace.com/mark...ifi_acces.html that may be required (also direct from IFI on this page http://www.ifirobotics.com/victor-88...r-robots.shtml)

Also, you should note that the Novak EVX has smart braking and the victor has jumper selected braking (when the throttle value is neutral) only.

[Andy A.]

Victors will work just fine with typical R/C gear. Signal drivers are not neccesary. You will have to calibrate them, naturally, but after that they work just peachy. Forward and reverse will work just fine, although reverse will be over a very small area of travel on the trigger. Aircraft receivers are another story- some channels use a normal PWM signal and others don't. I have not been able to figure out a real guideline for them, as I've only played with 2 or 3. For a normal 2 or 3 channel radio you won't have any problem.

You will need to use more then one 7.2 volt battery pack though. 7 volts is not enough to run the victor (the voltage drop as the motor starts turning will shutdown the victor). I suggest you use two in series. The Victor will be no worse for the added voltage and the motor will run faster. I also remove the fan on the Victor.

Go forth, and enjoy the world of overvolted drill motors.

[John Gutmann]

Originally Posted by Andy A.

I also remove the fan on the Victor.

I do know that, that^ is a terrible idea.

[Aren_Hill]

i'm going to test operating a motor with one of my teams victors and if it works i'll probably get my own

[Matt Krass]

Originally Posted by sparksandtabs

I do know that, that^ is a terrible idea.

While at the low current draws involved with R/C motors the FETs are probably dissipating considerably less heat, I see no practical advantage to turning them off, and there's always that fluke power surge. I'm curious Andy, do you gain anything significant from removing the fans?

[Andy A.]

Originally Posted by Matt Krass

While at the low current draws involved with R/C motors the FETs are probably dissipating considerably less heat, I see no practical advantage to turning them off, and there's always that fluke power surge. I'm curious Andy, do you gain anything significant from removing the fans?

First and foremost, the advantage is a reduction in both weight and hight. If I am putting a Victor on a car it's because I intend to make it go fast. It might not seem like much, but one of those fans is hefty. Weight negatively effects every performance aspect of an RC car. So if it isn't mandatory, it goes. Losing the fan also cuts down on the victor's height, which makes it a bit easier to package. The victors are already much larger and heavier then typical hobby speed controllers and demand a larger battery source, so any weight or size reduction makes a big difference.

Using a Victor means trying to make up the weight gained from the extra cells needed to run it. Even with the increased capacity and features of the victor the extra weight makes it a hard pill to swallow. The price, which is to say free, makes up for a lot in my mind but it is still an hard trade off.

After that it's just the shear pointlessness of the fan to start with. On a FIRST robot running a full 2 minute match, the Victors running drive motors might get toasty enough to need the fan. Running one motor moving less then 5 lbs and there is no way that the FETs will produce enough heat to warrant a fan. They just won't. Honest. The popular notion that removing the fan or not having one running for ever moment the victor has power applied annoys the heck out of me because it's so utterly false.

I've run many small RC cars with a victor/drill motor or FP motor setup and have never once found the victors to be anything but stone cold. I have never once seen a Victor fail because the FETs overheated (short circuits not withstanding) Heat is simply not the big killer issue that people make it out to be in regards to the Victors. If you are really worried about it just position the victor so some air passes over it through the body, but don't bite you're nails about it.

The fan really is overkill on an RC car. Ditch it and worry about balence and where to stick the extra battery pack.

-Andy A.

[Matt Krass]

Originally Posted by Andy A.

First and foremost, the advantage is a reduction in both weight and hight. If I am putting a Victor on a car it's because I intend to make it go fast. It might not seem like much, but one of those fans is hefty. Weight negatively effects every performance aspect of an RC car. So if it isn't mandatory, it goes. Losing the fan also cuts down on the victor's height, which makes it a bit easier to package. The victors are already much larger and heavier then typical hobby speed controllers and demand a larger battery source, so any weight or size reduction makes a big difference.

Using a Victor means trying to make up the weight gained from the extra cells needed to run it. Even with the increased capacity and features of the victor the extra weight makes it a hard pill to swallow. The price, which is to say free, makes up for a lot in my mind but it is still an hard trade off.

After that it's just the shear pointlessness of the fan to start with. On a FIRST robot running a full 2 minute match, the Victors running drive motors might get toasty enough to need the fan. Running one motor moving less then 5 lbs and there is no way that the FETs will produce enough heat to warrant a fan. They just won't. Honest. The popular notion that removing the fan or not having one running for ever moment the victor has power applied annoys the heck out of me because it's so utterly false.

I've run many small RC cars with a victor/drill motor or FP motor setup and have never once found the victors to be anything but stone cold. I have never once seen a Victor fail because the FETs overheated (short circuits not withstanding) Heat is simply not the big killer issue that people make it out to be in regards to the Victors. If you are really worried about it just position the victor so some air passes over it through the body, but don't bite you're nails about it.

The fan really is overkill on an RC car. Ditch it and worry about balence and where to stick the extra battery pack.

-Andy A.

What you say makes sense, thanks for clarifying that. How much current does an R/C car typically draw though? Wouldn't it make more sense to go with hobby ESCs then? Or is use of Victors a convenience since they're readily available or something? Or do they offer some kind of power boost?

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions, I tend to get curious