D-Link power feed - converter

[shai]

Hello all,
A few days ago we tried to configure and test our D-link AP, but when then we saw that the AP power connection is 5V. There is only one 5V output on the PDB and it is used for the Axis camera, so how should we connect it?

The power distribution diagram shows that we should use a 12V - 5V converter, Are there any rules about this converter or can we use any one we buy?

Thanks,
Shai, team #3038

[Steven Sigley]

There's one in the kit. Looks kinda like a heat sink with 4 wires coming off of it. No need to go shopping.

[Al Skierkiewicz]

Shai,
The robot rules state you must use the power convertor in the KOP.
<R38> All electric power utilized by the ROBOT shall be distributed from the load terminals of the PD Board. Circuits may not bypass the PD Board to connect directly to the 120-amp loop.

B. The radio power feed must be connected via the 5V converter (model # TBJ12DK025Z) to the marked 12 Vdc supply terminals located at the end of the PD Board (i.e. the terminals located between the indicator LEDs, and not the main WAGO connectors along the sides of the PD Board). No other electrical load can be connected to these terminals (please see the 2011 Robot Power Distribution Diagram posted online at www.usfirst.org/frc/kitofparts for wiring information).

[Mark McLeod]

Here's a photo of the converter that came in the KOP.
It's inside a small white box.
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/at...2&d=1294671172

If you have to order one it'll come after the Chinese New Year on a slow boat from China...

[shai]

Thanks, I'm pretty sure we got it this part in our elctronics box.

[DtD]

Be careful when you hook it up. When I did it, I saw the yellow wire and though "Ah, 12 Volts, like on a computer PSU" and red for 5 V (Also typical color for the 5 V lines in a computer PSU)

Result: 44 volts through the DAP-1522. NOT FUN.
Also, the switching voltage regulator inside, which I suspect blew, had a maximum rating of 42 volts.

If you do blow it, Amazon has a nice $15 rebate + sale so they are only $57. We bought two.

[Zuelu562]

For reference purposes, can you explain the wiring (regarding which color goes where and is hooked to what)? I suspect we are going to have to cut up last year's power cables and splice but it would be nice to know for sure; we're (and by that I mean me) setting up the radio for power today.

[Mark McLeod]

Referring to the back of the converter...

12v side:

• red(+) -> white wago connector -> PD reserved wireless connection
• black (-) -> same wago

5v side:

• yellow(+) -> white stripped wire leading to barrel connector
• black (-) -> solid black wire to barrel connector

The barrel connector and wire can be cut off the wall wart that came with the D-Link, or use last year's (if it's the right size), or purchase one.


TEST with a multi-meter before connecting the barrel connector to the D-LINK.
Red lead inside the barrel, black lead on the outer casing.
Center MUST be positive and Must read +5v.

[Zuelu562]

Thanks Mark. Much Appreciated.

[Al Skierkiewicz]

The coaxial power connector from last year's radio is a different size than the Dlink.

[Alan Anderson]

Originally Posted by Mark McLeod

The barrel connector and wire can be cut off the wall wart that came with the D-Link,...

We cut that wire and inserted a set of PowerPole connectors so we could use the transformer again if/when desired. We installed a matching pair of connectors on the output of the power converter. The converter's input wires go directly to a Wago plug.

[Mark McLeod]

P.S.
Talked with Al. It seems his old barrel connector is not the same as mine, so check your own to see if they are reusable this year.
Not all old Linksys connectors are the same as the D-Link.

The outside barrel must be the correct fit, but also the inside center must not be loose (Al's issue) on the D-Link pin. Some barrel connectors have a larger center hole than others. The ones we got with our Linksys in 2009/2010 have, in addition to the center hole, a pair of spring contacts.
Here's a comparison shot of one of the Linksys wall-warts that matches the D-Link.

[PhilBot]

I did the same thing but checked voltage before plugging in. What I want to know is : what kind of circuit is cool enought to step up or down a dc voltage based on which way you plug it in???????

Originally Posted by DtD

Be careful when you hook it up. When I did it, I saw the yellow wire and though "Ah, 12 Volts, like on a computer PSU" and red for 5 V (Also typical color for the 5 V lines in a computer PSU)

Result: 44 volts through the DAP-1522. NOT FUN.
Also, the switching voltage regulator inside, which I suspect blew, had a maximum rating of 42 volts.


If you do blow it, Amazon has a nice $15 rebate + sale so they are only $57. We bought two.