pic: FRC973 offseason teaser #5

[dodar]

Originally Posted by Akash Rastogi

No because that would be pointless. Lol

Actually more like 50. lol

[AdamHeard]

Brandon, the lower gusset is actually our .125 thick full size bellypan. This year we had the bellypan and an internal block, no upper gusset. A student pointed out we should try an upper gusset for our 6wd instead, and it turned out to be obviously a lot simpler and easier to make. The internal blocks are a pain to fabricate.

Originally Posted by Holtzman

All the cool teams use 1/4" Rivets.

Haha, we've only recently really started using rivets in this fashion, and #10-32 bolts are our standard, so 3/16" matches up well. Our pneumatic and hand riveters only go to 3/16" as well. A "big daddy" is on our wishlist, we'll see what happens. It'd be nice to know we can drill out 3/16" and go to 1/4" as a quick fix.

[Brandon Holley]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

Brandon, the lower gusset is actually our .125 thick full size bellypan. This year we had the bellypan and an internal block, no upper gusset. A student pointed out we should try an upper gusset for our 6wd instead, and it turned out to be obviously a lot simpler and easier to make. The internal blocks are a pain to fabricate.

Ah, yes that makes sense. We've built frames for our manipulators/elevators/etc. using the same technique where gussets would be on either side; that is why I asked the question.

Looking forward to seeing the completed assembly.

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

Haha, we've only recently really started using rivets in this fashion, and #10-32 bolts are our standard, so 3/16" matches up well. Our pneumatic and hand riveters only go to 3/16" as well. A "big daddy" is on our wishlist, we'll see what happens. It'd be nice to know we can drill out 3/16" and go to 1/4" as a quick fix.

What material rivets are you using? We used 3/16" stainless on our claw this year, and we had a hell of a time popping them by hand. Luckily our sponsor has a more specialized rivet gun so we were able to get them eventually, but it definitely required the correct tool.

-Brando

[Katie_UPS]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

It's all plain 6061 Aluminum.

...no additional welding or bolting.

That's too bad. 6061 is fun and nice to weld.

[Borisdamole]

Originally Posted by Katie_UPS

That's too bad. 6061 is fun and nice to weld.

But if its welded it is harder to repair (especially if already powered coated)

Some welded powder coated robots frames show cracks in the welds by the end of the season after some hard matches.

[Katie_UPS]

Originally Posted by Borisdamole

But if its welded it is harder to repair (especially if already powered coated)

Some welded powder coated robots frames show cracks in the welds by the end of the season after some hard matches.

Yeah... My old team used to anodize. No problems with cracking, but re-welding anything was bad news. Are the cracks the result of powder coating + welding? Or is it just that the cracks are more visible due to the powder coating? Its kind of a dumb question, I know, but I don't think any of our anodized welds showed cracks (aside from a fall off a ramp in 2007).

[Borisdamole]

Originally Posted by Katie_UPS

Yeah... My old team used to anodize. No problems with cracking, but re-welding anything was bad news. Are the cracks the result of powder coating + welding? Or is it just that the cracks are more visible due to the powder coating? Its kind of a dumb question, I know, but I don't think any of our anodized welds showed cracks (aside from a fall off a ramp in 2007).

The powder coat defiantly will make them more noticeable. The powder coating was not the cause of the crack.

A crack on the powder was a great indication that the weld COULD be a problem.

I am just saying that with the riveted solution, a cracked weld is NEVER a problem!

[Katie_UPS]

Gotcha.

Anyways, super cool looking brackets.