pic: Team 3647 West Coast Drive

[Andrew Schreiber]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

The assumption that the bearing blocks must be difficult to make is flawed. They can be done really simple and easy.

How? < legit question

[Marc S.]

Originally Posted by Andrew Schreiber

How? < legit question

I don't want to sound like a smart @ss, but a bearing block is just that, a block. Add a 1.125" hole through the middle(for the bearings), a couple of threaded holes to hold it all together and you basically have a bearing block. We add a .125" chamfer to fit in the filleted slot, and make it .010" under the width of the frame tubing to make sure it clamps. Check out our cad and you'll see what i'm talking about. Our bearing blocks can be machined on a standard mill no problem.
This is also how 60, 254,968, 1538, and many other WCD's are setup.

[Mk.32]

Newb question but hat does the block add over the plates I used?
Isn't the bearings taking all the weight either way?

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by Mk.32

Newb question but hat does the block add over the plates I used?
Isn't the bearings taking all the weight either way?

There isn't anything holding the bearings concentric and in plane with each other very well. This could cause the bearings to get loaded nonradially and become less efficient.

It also could be a negligable amount.

Check out one of our bases to see an example of our block, which is very simple to make.

[Madison]

Our experience has been that separate plates on either side of the rail on this type of drive do not work well. The tension in the chain tends to pull the axles at each end toward the center, creating toe on the wheels.

I'd argue that the bearing block design is the most important (and most overlooked) element in this sort of design. Plates alone probably won't cut it.

[Mk.32]

Well taking the feed back from above, here is take 2.



Literally a bearing block. With a pocket cut into the rail that allows it to slide about .25inch for tensioning. And two 1/8 plates that hold it in place.

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by Mk.32

Well taking the feed back from above, here is take 2.



Literally a bearing block. With a pocket cut into the rail that allows it to slide about .25inch for tensioning. And two 1/8 plates that hold it in place.

Can we see it without the frame?

I personally prefer to tap the block and have each flange on held separately, but that's obviously up to each team to decide.

[Mk.32]

Here it is without the frame.

[Basel A]

Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by Basel A

Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?

Both bearings are partially pressed into the same piece of material.

[JamesCH95]

Originally Posted by Basel A

Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?

The bearings are pressed into the same bore, so they are definitely coaxial.

I think that if the slots are cut in the frame rail that the plates become superfluous. Mk. 32, you may consider using flanged or heavy hex bolts and/or washers and omitting the side plates.

[Basel A]

Originally Posted by Chris is me

Both bearings are partially pressed into the same piece of material.

Originally Posted by JamesCH95

The bearings are pressed into the same bore, so they are definitely coaxial.

Ah, I see. Makes sense. Thank you.

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by JamesCH95

The bearings are pressed into the same bore, so they are definitely coaxial.

I think that if the slots are cut in the frame rail that the plates become superfluous. Mk. 32, you may consider using flanged or heavy hex bolts and/or washers and omitting the side plates.

It really is a lot cleaner with the faceplates.

[Brandon Holley]

I think you've found a good solution there. Keep up the good work.

-Brando

[Richard Wallace]

A few years ago, I had something like this bearing block fabricated for 931, courtesy of Jabba. He started with round bar stock.