pic: Team 3647 West Coast Drive

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by Mk.32

Well taking the feed back from above, here is take 2.



Literally a bearing block. With a pocket cut into the rail that allows it to slide about .25inch for tensioning. And two 1/8 plates that hold it in place.

Can we see it without the frame?

I personally prefer to tap the block and have each flange on held separately, but that's obviously up to each team to decide.

[Mk.32]

Here it is without the frame.

[Basel A]

Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by Basel A

Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?

Both bearings are partially pressed into the same piece of material.

[JamesCH95]

Originally Posted by Basel A

Is the block+plates design better than just the plates at holding the bearing axes collinear just because of the added material constraining the bolts, or is there a more complicated explanation?

The bearings are pressed into the same bore, so they are definitely coaxial.

I think that if the slots are cut in the frame rail that the plates become superfluous. Mk. 32, you may consider using flanged or heavy hex bolts and/or washers and omitting the side plates.

[Basel A]

Originally Posted by Chris is me

Both bearings are partially pressed into the same piece of material.

Originally Posted by JamesCH95

The bearings are pressed into the same bore, so they are definitely coaxial.

Ah, I see. Makes sense. Thank you.

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by JamesCH95

The bearings are pressed into the same bore, so they are definitely coaxial.

I think that if the slots are cut in the frame rail that the plates become superfluous. Mk. 32, you may consider using flanged or heavy hex bolts and/or washers and omitting the side plates.

It really is a lot cleaner with the faceplates.

[Brandon Holley]

I think you've found a good solution there. Keep up the good work.

-Brando

[Richard Wallace]

A few years ago, I had something like this bearing block fabricated for 931, courtesy of Jabba. He started with round bar stock.

[Akash Rastogi]

Originally Posted by Richard

A few years ago, I had something like this bearing block fabricated for 931, courtesy of Jabba. He started with round bar stock.

Was that done on a manual mill?

That looks great and easy to make! Looks like you could do the bore on a manual lathe with a DRO and then the rest on a mill with DRO.

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by Akash Rastogi

Was that done on a manual mill?

That looks great and easy to make! Looks like you could do the bore on a manual lathe with a DRO and then the rest on a mill with DRO.

Even a drill press with a DRO if you want. You don't need a mill with DRO to face the top and bottom flat.

Or maybe center punch holes using a template and then drill that way. Precision isn't terribly vital for this kind of part.

[Richard Wallace]

Originally Posted by Akash Rastogi

Was that done on a manual mill?

Flats were made using a manual mill. But the first steps were cutting blanks from the round stock (band saw) and then facing and boring them so the bearings fit square (manual lathe).

And Chris is right, there are other ways to get the same result.

[AlecMataloni]

Threads like this are one of the reasons I love this website so much.

The idea that a guy can post his designs on a website and people from across the world can pick apart his design and give their input on how to improve it, while the OP willingly changes his design accordingly is pretty darn awesome.

I hope this design sees a lot of success. It definitely has the potential.

[JesseK]

McMaster # 9056K11 (or similar from a less expensive supplier) might be a good start for Richard's design.

Without a DRO, how would one check the bored diameter? Is the only way to start/stop the lathe constantly?

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by JesseK

Without a DRO, how would one check the bored diameter? Is the only way to start/stop the lathe constantly?

I would presume you'd drill the hole undersize and ream it.