Team 772 First WCD CAD

[akoscielski3]

I made My First West Coast Drive today.

Specs:

FPS: 13~
Transmissions: Toughbox mini 5:56:1 Gear ratio
Tube size: 2 x 1
Weight: Unknown at this point
Wheels: 4in AndyMark Performance wheels
Live axles using Keystock


Things I now i need to do:
Make Transmissions plates to support them
Make belly pan for electrics
Put CIM's In

https://plus.google.com/photos/10207...21262306?hl=en

Since I have never made a Chassis with live axles i don't know if these bearing blocks would work.

https://plus.google.com/photos/10207...15094658?hl=en

Any thoughts or problems??? THANKS

Great chassis! Love the WCD!

Originally Posted by akoscielski3

Things I now i need to do:
Make Transmissions plates to support them
Make belly pan for electrics
Put CIM's In

As a side note, it'll probably be a good idea to get those CIMs in! I find they're quite helpful for making the robot move!

EDIT: Where'd you get the tread from? Looks nice, especially with that blue frame!

[Mk.32]

You should add some more support for the gearboxes instead of just two stand offs. Start with the hex shafts to join the top of the gearboxes.
How do you plan to align the bearing plates?
What size/thickness alum box? Welded?
For a belly plan the AM poly carb would work.
And what is keeping the sprockets on the shaft?

[akoscielski3]

Originally Posted by Mk.32

You should add some more support for the gearboxes instead of just two stand offs. Start with the hex shafts to join the top of the gearboxes.
How do you plan to align the bearing plates?
What size/thickness alum box? Welded?
For a belly plan the AM poly carb would work.
And what is keeping the sprockets on the shaft?

I am going to add Two Aluminum Plates to the transmissions. 1 on top and 1 on the bottom.

Aligning the bearing plates. Never thought about that. (however this chassis may never be built)

The thickness of the Aluminum is 1/8th 1 in by 2in. Yes welded.

We will most likely use lexan for the belly pan. We get it donated.

The inside of each shaft will be threaded for 1/4-20 bolts. It is gonna have a washer and then a bolt holding them on. The spacers will ensure it stays in the right spot.

[Justin Montois]

Looks good. You should add in some cross members and corner gussets for some support.

Keep up the good work.

[akoscielski3]

Originally Posted by Justin Montois

Looks good. You should add in some cross members and corner gussets for some support.

Keep up the good work.

With the transmission Plates and Belly pan, wont that be enough instead of putting Cross Members in? I'm not sure about putting in corner gussets though.

[Feroz1325]

Both cross-members and corner gusset plates would be redundant in this WCD. The corner gusset plates would be unhelpful as the chassis will be welded (on a side note: some welders like to have corner gussets in before welding for alignment purposes but..it’s all personal preference). Also the cross-members can be replaced by a good belly-pan. Just make sure you support you transmissions and this looks like a great WCD.
Just a few questions...How are you going to tension the chains? and why did you choose the Toughbox Mini's?

[akoscielski3]

Originally Posted by Feroz1325

Both cross-members and corner gusset plates would be redundant in this WCD. The corner gusset plates would be unhelpful as the chassis will be welded (on a side note: some welders like to have corner gussets in before welding for alignment purposes but..it’s all personal preference). Also the cross-members can be replaced by a good belly-pan. Just make sure you support you transmissions and this looks like a great WCD.
Just a few questions...How are you going to tension the chains? and why did you choose the Toughbox Mini's?

Chain Tensioners: I will have to add that to my list of To Do`s

Toughbox mini`s: Inexpensive and gave the gear ratio i needed for a fast robot with 4in wheels.

[Marc S.]

Originally Posted by akoscielski3

Chain Tensioners: I will have to add that to my list of To Do`s

Toughbox mini`s: Inexpensive and gave the gear ratio i needed for a fast robot with 4in wheels.

By slotting the front and rear bearing block cutouts your can use the axle as a chain tensioner.

[Feroz1325]

have you considered sliding bearing blocks for tensioning? Of all the systems ive seen that seems to be one of the most elegant and simple.
I just have to say that it looks awesome....team 772 has always been a team to look up to! Hope to see you guys at GTR and...i have too....
7 - 7 who? 772!!!
Its so catchy!! after u guys chant it in the stands its stuck in my head for months!

[akoscielski3]

Originally Posted by Feroz1325

have you considered sliding bearing blocks for tensioning? Of all the systems ive seen that seems to be one of the most elegant and simple.
I just have to say that it looks awesome....team 772 has always been a team to look up to! Hope to see you guys at GTR and...i have too....
7 - 7 who? 772!!!
Its so catchy!! after u guys chant it in the stands its stuck in my head for months!

LOL! This was the best post I have ever read :')

Thanks for this, it made my night (Canada juniors are ruining it).

I will most likely use a sliding bearing block now. I usually would put a slot for a tensioner in the middle of the chain (for sheet metal chassis) but seems like more people are doing a sliding bearing block for WCD.

[Feroz1325]

A mid-chain tensioner would add weight and inefficiency to the system as a whole. The reason for switching to WCD (mainly) is to remove weight and increase efficiency. Also since you have individual bearing blocks already, its simpler to just pocket out the aluminum box extrusion and allow them to slide.

that russian team! beating us on our own turf ruining all our nights!