Tap Magic?

[sanddrag]

For manual machinery tasks you might also want to look into Relton A9 or Anchor cutting fluid (water soluble). I've had good results with both. Anchor has especially nice cutting, but it feels gross on my hands compared to A9. For the CNC, after extensive reading I decided on Trim, but I haven't run it yet. For some operations in aluminum, I've found regular ol WD40 to work rather well, but I'd recommend something a little thicker for tapping.

[Levansic]

I know this thread is about one brand of tapping fluid, but allow me to offer a heretical solution that works much better for aluminum than this fluid or wax, and does not contain hazardous chemicals. Better yet, it is available in most schools right now!

Believe it or not, the best aluminum tapping fluid out there is the lustrous pink hand soap that comes from the dispenser in most institutional rest rooms. The next best option is viscous dish soaps like Palmolive or Dawn (do not try this with thin dollar store knock-offs).

Unlike the oil-based fluids, these soaps wash out cleanly with plain water. They leave no contamination if you need to weld (or anodize) the tapped piece later. They provide very good lubrication through the cut, and do not make as much of a mess, when compared to other tapping fluids. These soaps won't stain your clothing.

-- Len

[AdamHeard]

Originally Posted by Cory

I always liked the regular stuff but we bought some aluminum tap magic a few years ago and I hate it.

There's something about the cinnamon smell that gives me a massive headache every time I'm exposed to it. It's also near impossible to wash off your hands completely.

Works well though.

I much prefer the sweet & satisfying taste and smell of A9.

[Levansic]

Originally Posted by sanddrag

For the CNC, after extensive reading I decided on Trim, but I haven't run it yet.

I used Trim (C275) extensively and really liked it for cutting just about everything, but I can't say that I liked tapping anything using CNC machines. Rigid or soft, explicit tap cycle or directly coded; tapping is a very special challenge for NC. You really need a properly set automatic tapping head. Otherwise, you will collect a lot of broken taps, and more damaged workpieces.

For prototype work, it is much better to NC the pilot holes, and tap the threads by hand. Production is different, it takes a much larger investment of time and capital.

Back to the coolant, Trim makes the air taste sweet when it is atomized. I put this in the pile of information, I wish I didn't know, because I'm pretty sure that it isn't a good thing to ingest. I know that the anaerobic bacteria problem we had when using conventional naphthalated corn oil based coolants, went away when we made the switch to Trim.

-- Len

[sanddrag]

Originally Posted by AdamHeard

I much prefer the sweet & satisfying taste and smell of A9.

Probably because it's made out of animal fat

[Garrett.d.w]

The heavy weight of 3 in 1 oil tends to work well for tapping and most cutting situations, it is also really easy to get and a good general lubricant. It is also easy to clean using a rag.

I can also vouch for A9, amazing stuff.

Since it seems to matter on this thread, both have a sweet smell when burned.

[Gray Adams]

Originally Posted by Levansic

I used Trim (C275) extensively and really liked it for cutting just about everything, but I can't say that I liked tapping anything using CNC machines. Rigid or soft, explicit tap cycle or directly coded; tapping is a very special challenge for NC. You really need a properly set automatic tapping head. Otherwise, you will collect a lot of broken taps, and more damaged workpieces.

For prototype work, it is much better to NC the pilot holes, and tap the threads by hand. Production is different, it takes a much larger investment of time and capital.

-- Len

I don't have any problems (on a Haas with rigid tapping) with cycles or directly written programs, cut taps or roll taps. As long as its properly cooled, programmed, and you're not trying to go too deep at once, it comes out fine.

[nitsua60]

Originally Posted by Levansic

I know this thread is about one brand of tapping fluid, but allow me to offer a heretical solution that works much better for aluminum than this fluid or wax, and does not contain hazardous chemicals....
-- Len

I use coconut oil as my cutting and tapping fluid/wax. It's a solid at room temperature, melts at skin temperature, has a high smoke point (450 deg F, if Wikipedia's to be believed), smells great, and is relatively cheap. And I don't know if it's the smell, but I never have to remind students to use it--they're all over it.

I picked up this tip from the shop manager at CU-Boulder and have never looked back.

[Levansic]

Originally Posted by nitsua60

I picked up this tip from the shop manager at CU-Boulder and have never looked back.

That's funny. I got the soap trick from an old tool and die maker, when I ran Cornell's student shop. I had been a wax or A9 user, but the Hand soap worked better than both.

I could see coconut oil working well.

-- Len

[Levansic]

Originally Posted by Gray Adams

I don't have any problems (on a Haas with rigid tapping) with cycles or directly written programs, cut taps or roll taps. As long as its properly cooled, programmed, and you're not trying to go too deep at once, it comes out fine.

Perhaps your Haas is tighter than the Fadal and Okuma machines my bad experiences came from. I should revise that I never had a problem with 1/4-20 or larger, but smaller than that with either blind or deep through holes is problematic for most machines. Insufficient chip evacuation was the typical cause of seized and then broken taps. Lots of small holes are tapped by NC machines in production, every day. Those parts, programs and fixtures have been optimized for production.

I still maintain that for prototypes and student projects, it is far better to tap by hand. It builds character and an appreciation for the material and tools. It also keeps you from finding out how deep is too deep, especially when you may be working with an unknown alloy. A bit of a tangent, but not all aluminum cuts the same. Once had a college robotics team grab some 3003 (essentially pure Al) when they ran out of 6061, for an intricately cut CNC'd part. Had to slow the spindle to half, and feed to a third of the rate for 6061 to get passable parts. Machine tapping was not an option because of the "grabby" nature of 3003.

-- Len

[Dick Linn]

I've been wanting to try Anchorlube G-771 for tapping. It supposedly works well and is not as nasty as some other types.

http://www.anchorlube.com/anchorlube.html

You can request a free sample on their main page.

[gracie.]

We use tap magic when tapping and hacksawing- but just a word of warning... wash your hands before you eat.
Almost all the older members on my team are like "tap magic is good with pizza," and that's probably not such a good thing... safety first!

[Levansic]

Originally Posted by Dick Linn

I've been wanting to try Anchorlube G-771 for tapping. It supposedly works well and is not as nasty as some other types.

http://www.anchorlube.com/anchorlube.html

You can request a free sample on their main page.

Looks promising. Two things that caught my eye on the MSDS are the extreme non-specificity of hazardous ingredients, and the almond odor. On the first, I doubt that this product contains anything that is very bad, but there is no indication of any ingredients, other than being "soap" based.

On the second, it makes this product a non-starter for our team, as it indicates that it may contain esters of almonds. We have a student on our team, who is highly allergic to tree nuts, like almonds.

-- Len

[Gray Adams]

Originally Posted by Dick Linn

I've been wanting to try Anchorlube G-771 for tapping. It supposedly works well and is not as nasty as some other types.

http://www.anchorlube.com/anchorlube.html

You can request a free sample on their main page.

We used it for tapping some 303 stainless parts to M4x.7. It seemed like good stuff, but on one part I put too little on the tap and it broke (and then so did the boring bar that follows).

I can't vouch for it for hand tapping, but apparently our programmers decided it is better than just coolant for small taps in stainless. Never used it for aluminum though, or larger taps in stainless.

[FourPenguins]

Originally Posted by Dick Linn

I've been wanting to try Anchorlube G-771 for tapping. It supposedly works well and is not as nasty as some other types.

http://www.anchorlube.com/anchorlube.html

You can request a free sample on their main page.

When I was on 11, we used to swear by the stuff for machining of all kinds. The nice thing about it is it's water-based and can be diluted to your desired viscosity. It also doesn't have the unpleasant fumes of a lot of oil-based lubricants/coolants.