Mounting a Toughbox

[roystur44]

Better safe than sorry on thin wall tube. I would recommend welding on a .125" mounting plate and using 4 screws for mounting. If you used only 2 screws and one became loose you will run into problems. Sometimes a little overkill is a good thing.

[pfreivald]

I'm a big fan of overkill especially when it comes to drive train. If you can't drive, you can't play!

[waitwhat?]

Originally Posted by pfreivald

I'm a big fan of overkill especially when it comes to drive train. If you can't drive, you can't play!

I agree with this whole heartedly, the drive train keeps you in the game.

That being said, a good moto is "When in doubt, make it stout" meaning if a joint or mechanism looks questionable, beef it up until you feel comfortable with it.

You might want to capture the end of the drive shaft in a bearing, will help keep your transmission and drive shaft lined up as well as distribute some of the robot weight a bit.

[MichaelBick]

Originally Posted by waitwhat?

I agree with this whole heartedly, the drive train keeps you in the game.

That being said, a good moto is "When in doubt, make it stout" meaning if a joint or mechanism looks questionable, beef it up until you feel comfortable with it.

You might want to capture the end of the drive shaft in a bearing, will help keep your transmission and drive shaft lined up as well as distribute some of the robot weight a bit.

True, but I don't think it is needed. All the teams that do WCD have been cantilevering their drive shafts and have been fine for years(remember, their gearboxes are also sticking out more due to the space needed for the shifter and the sprockets). However, if you already are running the tubing on the other side you should but a bearing just because you can. I would consider though if you really need that outer tubing, as it can be a lot of weight that is not really needed. The joint can also be made stronger if you move the bolts higher in the tube.