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#1
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
Decent rule of thumb is that stress wants to flow in smooth, uninterrupted, straight lines.
Think about how your part is loaded (including all twisting and bending) and see visualize if stress is forced to unnecessarily flow around pockets and corners. A lot of the pocketing I've seen in FRC is actually really, really inefficient. In all fairness, we do a lot of visually inefficient pocketing as well when parts are much stronger than necessary. |
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#2
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
I wasn't actually the one who designed those gussets, but we have a couple of methods for lightening things on 100.
First, the one you saw in the photo. Basically, we draw out all our critical features, and cut out everything but some "spokes" that run between critical holes and features. It is meant to take load that goes from one feature to another in a straight line like Adam described. Then, we add safety circles around all of the critical features and put in fillets. Perhaps not the most efficient method, but it does look great. A number of west coast teams pocket in ways like this. It also takes a while, so beware. Second, just plain old holes. Sometimes, when we've got a big long member that we want lightened, we take it over to the drill press and just cut out a bunch of huge holes with a hole saw. If you do them regularly, they don't look too bad, and more importantly, they're a lot faster to do then milling. This is a pretty inefficient lightening method on the other hand. It may not be the strongest either (although I've never seen a break because of the lightening holes on a part like that). This method is good for low resource teams too, as you don't need a mill. We did this on our first iteration climber arms: ![]() Third, don't forget about plain old pockets. For large plates that need to be thick for some reason, or tubing we want lightened, we can set it up in the CNC, and basically take all the material not around the cutout or critical features to about .060". This saves a lot of weight, is faster to design and machine then the first option, and looks real slick (milled alu finish for the win!). Check out this for an example: ![]() I have to remind you, the number one way to reduce weight is to reduce material thickness. If you've got a frame made out of 1/8" 2x1 and you change it to 1/16," you're basically cutting its weight in half. We aren't too gentle to our frames and we've never had a problem with 1/16" thick tubing. Also, very few plates on a robot need to be out of 1/4" plate, or even 1/8." Our bellypan was all 1/16" alu, and is perfectly strong. We probably could have even gone with 1/16" thick gussets instead of 1/8" too. Most material isn't doing much. Lightening removes that material. Structure you're lightening patterns as such. |
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#3
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
I looked at team 100's side plates today and they look great powder coated. I would recomend that teams with a CNC mill give it a try. And if you are good you can do it on a Bridgeport. Very sharp looking.
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#4
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
Thanks Seth, it was a pleasure having you over.
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#5
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
The strongest shape is the triangle so rather than cutting out large rectangles some smaller triangles would typically be stronger.
Take some Popsicle sticks and attach them together at each end with a single pin. In the shape of a triangle you can not cause the shape to rack w/o causing the fasteners or the sticks to fail while a square/rectangle will rack and collapse without much force. |
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#6
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
Quote:
We may have to experiment with this during the fall... |
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#7
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Re: Pocketing Gussets
Quote:
Last edited by MichaelBick : 01-09-2013 at 21:12. |
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