Anybody hear of this - 3D printers for every FIRST team

[techhelpbb]

On MakerGeeks.com 20% discount until 2:00 PM EST 12/2/2013:
Read the next 35 minutes...so hurry

http://www.makergeeks.com/
Code: FLASH20a

So Duplicator 4 = http://www.makergeeks.com/d4prbot3dprd.html
Price is about $1,165

Code is not locked to hardware so: filament, Cube mod, RepRap parts.

Just grabbed the starter kit for $392 (savings $98 off normal)
Contains: RAMPS 1.4, 5 Pololu stepper drivers, 5 NEMA17 steppers, control shield, heated bed, glass bed, thermistor, drive cogs, belts (probably not GT2 belts but hey), VXB 8mm linear round rod bearings, cables, limits, single nozzle extruder

Worth at least $415 not including S/H if you parted this yourself:
Motors $100
Control kit $150
Extruder $75
Cogs / Belts $75
Bearings $15

If someone is still interested, till the end of CyberMonday:

15% off order over $350 is code CYBER25
12% off order over $250 is code CYBER15
10% off any order is code CYBER10

[pfreivald]

We got our Replicator 2 today!

[Alpha Beta]

Originally Posted by pfreivald

We got our Replicator 2 today!

Ours arrived today. Went from opening the box to printing a nut and bolt in minutes. I had no idea it was that easy to get started. Both my chemistry class and robotics team are going to have some fun creating. The only trouble I had was the objects were more stuck to the build plate than I expected. Having never used this technology before I guess I didn't know what to expect. They did twist off with some force.

On December 3rd the Donorschoose.org blog answered a few questions. Here are some quotes.

Mrs. G and Andrew – Sorry for the disappointment and general confusion around this offer. The offer initially was just for Brooklyn. And shortly after, it went national.

We’re working with the MakerBot team to receive additional funding so you and your students can take full advantage of this opportunity. You’ll find the latest updates on this blog.

Amit - December 3, 2013

Hey Mr. B – We’re working hard to bring this offer back! Stay tuned to this blog post for the latest.

About the optional donation – You do not need the full optional donation amount for your project to be fully funded. Donors can opt out of this donation, if they want to. You can learn more about how it works here:

http://help.donorschoose.org/app/ans...etail/a_id/203

Amit - December 3, 2013

Chris – If the Almost Home offer comes back, be sure to get the $98 donated while the offer is on your page. Here’s some more information on how Almost Home offers work:

http://help.donorschoose.org/app/ans...etail/a_id/237

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out to us here at: http://help.donorschoose.org/app/contact

Amit - December 3, 2013

- See more at: http://www.donorschoose.org/blog/201....5S34gze3.dpuf

[safiq10]

We also had the same problem with our printer getting stuck. We tried applying the blue tape to it but it wasnt that good unless you completly remove the tape. Also the lube isnt for the board.

[Alpha Beta]

Originally Posted by safiq10

Also the lube isnt for the board.

That made me chuckle.

The plate has two sides. One is quite smooth, and the other is slightly textured, almost frosted. I put the frosted side up. There really weren't any instructions on which side to use.

Just read a suggestion in another forum to use a transparancy sheet (we still have some old overhead projectors) to saw underneath the part to pry it free. Someone else recommended the Circut Spatula Tool to help separate the part from the build plate.

[nicholsjj]

Originally Posted by Alpha Beta

That made me chuckle.

The plate has two sides. One is quite smooth, and the other is slightly textured, almost frosted. I put the frosted side up. There really weren't any instructions on which side to use.

Just read a suggestion in another forum to use a transparancy sheet (we still have some old overhead projectors) to saw underneath the part to pry it free. Someone else recommended the Circut Spatula Tool to help separate the part from the build plate.

We received our makerbot yesterday and we were able to print off the bolt,bracelet, chain, and comb. We actually used the smooth side with rubbing alcohol and an old electronics spatula to get the parts off. The only part that was pesky to get off the build plate was the comb. Also as a future design note make sure that you don't use a pla part by a high heat source like the compressor due to it deforming. My beautiful comb didn't care to much for my space heater.

[Kevin Ray]

On the smooth side of the build plate is a sheet of Kapton which helps the filament adhere to the plate (at least is on the Replicator 2X). There are some other tricks for removing a build from the deck. Try holding a can of compressed air upside down and letting the cold air "shrink" the build momentarily. It usually pops right off. Also, you may not have to do a lot of rafting (building a stable adhering surface on the build plate) for the Replicator 2X that you might have to do for other printers because of the heated build plate.
Many downloads from Thingiverse (warehouse of 3D models) are made on other brands of printers and you may have to make adjustments to the printer settings prior to hitting "print".

Finally, I can't wait until there is a plethora of FIRST-specific models out there on CD's white pages or Thingiverse for teams to share. There are literally hundreds of parts that can go on a bot that can be printed and I think this year will bear that out. I just hope the Makerbot will accept the carbon fiber Pla from the Proto Plant Inc. guys. That could open a lot of doors.

[MysterE]

So -

Imagine my surprise when I got back on our Donor's Choose site to find that our project had been fully funded.

Yay!

Now to wait for it to ship.

[Bald & Bearded]

Originally Posted by techhelpbb

Just grabbed the starter kit for $392 (savings $98 off normal)
Contains: RAMPS 1.4, 5 Pololu stepper drivers, 5 NEMA17 steppers, control shield, heated bed, glass bed, thermistor, drive cogs, belts (probably not GT2 belts but hey), VXB 8mm linear round rod bearings, cables, limits, single nozzle extruder

Worth at least $415 not including S/H if you parted this yourself:
Motors $100
Control kit $150
Extruder $75
Cogs / Belts $75
Bearings $15

If someone is still interested, till the end of CyberMonday:

15% off order over $350 is code CYBER25
12% off order over $250 is code CYBER15
10% off any order is code CYBER10

This was a pretty good deal.

[Bald & Bearded]

All:
Attached is a portion of a presentation I gave at the FRC Workshops sponsored by Team 1418 this past Saturday.

The core of the charts are #6,7,and 8 which are some comparisons of the printers being offered in FIRST Choice, some highly reviewed printers from Make magazines 3d printer issue, and some information on kits I am familiar with.

The key is teams need to do an ROI and value analysis before they jump on this technology.

[techhelpbb]

Originally Posted by Bald & Bearded

All:
Attached is a portion of a presentation I gave at the FRC Workshops sponsored by Team 1418 this past Saturday.

The core of the charts are #6,7,and 8 which are some comparisons of the printers being offered in FIRST Choice, some highly reviewed printers from Make magazines 3d printer issue, and some information on kits I am familiar with.

The key is teams need to do an ROI and value analysis before they jump on this technology.

Thanks I like the effort put into the comparison.

I am not sure one actually needs to have dual Z motors as a "critical feature" (page 4) as long as they can achieve the resolution and movement with one: does it really matter?

After all: often times the dual Z stepper motors are in parallel (with respect to a RAMPS 1.4 system for example...not in the general sense of stepper motor windings) and you are actually sending less power to both motors. For something like a Prusa I3 it makes sense because the dual Z lifts the carriage over the width of the printer. In a design like the MakerBot, Duplicator 4, or others of that type the table moves the print in the Z axis of the printer instead of the potentially heavier head assembly. Keeping in mind the head assembly moves in the X from side to side so at any one time the increased weight of the head is on one side of the other of the Prusa I3 design. That issue does not exist in the other design: the prints weigh less and really should not extend over the bed, while the extruder may extend out over the bed surface increasing the leverage of the head weight in the Prusa I3 system.

[Bald & Bearded]

Originally Posted by techhelpbb

Thanks I like the effort put into the comparison.

I am not sure one actually needs to have dual Z motors as a "critical feature" (page 4) as long as they can achieve the resolution and movement with one: does it really matter?

After all: often times the dual Z stepper motors are in parallel (with respect to a RAMPS 1.4 system for example...not in the general sense of stepper motor windings) and you are actually sending less power to both motors. For something like a Prusa I3 it makes sense because the dual Z lifts the carriage over the width of the printer. In a design like the MakerBot, Duplicator 4, or others of that type the table moves the print in the Z axis of the printer instead of the potentially heavier head assembly. Keeping in mind the head assembly moves in the X from side to side so at any one time the increased weight of the head is on one side of the other of the Prusa I3 design. That issue does not exist in the other design: the prints weigh less and really should not extend over the bed, while the extruder may extend out over the bed surface increasing the leverage of the head weight in the Prusa I3 system.

Good point on the other designs. I should have noted that designs that move the bed vs the X-carraige in the Z would not need dual motors. My main concern was both the weight of the Xcarraige and the resonance/vibration from the unsecured end as the carriage moves.
Rostocks are yet another example where the Z motor does not apply.

The reality is that the overall stability of the entire system is the key. Rod driven versus belt driven systems tend to have better absolute resolution in the X and Y.

[Navid Shafa]

Our 3D printer got here. I think I'm starting to get the hang of it.

[protoserge]

Originally Posted by Navid Shafa

Our 3D printer got here. I think I'm starting to get the hang of it.

I'm jealous. The color variety of print material available is impressive! Have you tested Plumber's Putty?

[James3245]

Originally Posted by Bald & Bearded

All:
Attached is a portion of a presentation I gave at the FRC Workshops sponsored by Team 1418 this past Saturday.

The core of the charts are #6,7,and 8 which are some comparisons of the printers being offered in FIRST Choice, some highly reviewed printers from Make magazines 3d printer issue, and some information on kits I am familiar with.

The key is teams need to do an ROI and value analysis before they jump on this technology.

A. In the presentation and your comments it notes the importance of a heated bed for ABS. One of the First choice items in the presentation comparison chart shows no heated bed but notes it is ABS compatible. Is a heated bed absolutely necessary or desired for ABS?

B. You mention belt vs. motor driven. What is the case with the First choice items?

Thanks!