Thoughts on the new AM14U 2014 KOP Drive train?

[Nick Lawrence]

Originally Posted by jblay

Has anyone put together a CAD file of the square version of the drive? I feel like that could be useful to a lot of people that are thinking about the square option...like 694 perhaps.

Yes. CAD and other documentation about a square configuration is now available on the AndyMark website, here under 'Files and Documents.'

-Nick

[Gary Bonner]

Has anyone driven the corner of their KoP chassis hard into an obstacle? Is any additional bracing needed to prevent racking between the inner and outer plates under competition conditions?

[jblay]

Originally Posted by Nick Lawrence

Yes. CAD and other documentation about a square configuration is now available on the AndyMark website, here under 'Files and Documents.'

-Nick

Ugh, I was working on the CAD myself to post on CD and was basically done. Is it weird that I'm disappointing?

Good job by AM getting that up there for teams.

[Ian Curtis]

Originally Posted by Ian Curtis

Not much. Guess I may have made a fool of myself assuming 1/2 of what was there in the long config would be enough. Software team spent all of today battling gremlins, so no report as to how it actually drives yet. Trying to turn it by hand on the carpet, seemed to me like there was quite a lot of scrub. May end up as an opportunity for the kids to get better at assembling and disassembling the AM14U.

Got it driving today, worked great. Our kids need lots of practice driving though...

[coachgallina]

Did you have to modify chassis to install ball shifters. Our shifters will be here on wed. And looking to prep for them

Joe gallina

[Oblarg]

I was not enamored of it, until I realized that the other axle holes were, indeed, proper center-to-center distances for standard HTD Belts.

The default configurations seem very suboptimal - 23'' is too narrow for a lot of potential ball acquisition designs, and I'm not a fan of wide-orientation drive bases in general.

The only complaint I really have now is that in order to do something other than 23''x32'' or 32''x23'', you have to drill your own holes to attach the front/back plates, but that's minor as we can clamp and match-drill those.

[Nemo]

My two gripes about the C-Base were inability to direct drive easily and too big of a spacing between the inner and outer rails. AM14U takes care of both issues nicely. Compared to C-Base or Drive in a Day, AM14U puts the wheels farther to the sides. The wheels can be within 3/8" of the frame perimeter's edge if you really want to push it. I really like the little flange on the bottom of the outer rail - it gives some bending resistance without forcing the wheels way inside the frame perimeter.

At first I was a little weirded out by using standoffs to connect the outer rails. But upon reflection I'm cool with that design choice. It's also possible to put 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID tube around the dead axles and run 1/2" bearings in the outer wheels to stiffen up the sides a little bit more.

I agree that a flange across the top of the inner rails would be nice.

[pilum40]

Originally Posted by Tom Line

In the long configuration, the chassis is a drop center. In the wide configuration, the step files show that it is not a drop center.

I'm a bit concerned the frame won't be able to take the pounding this year since blocking/pinning is legal from the back line to back line. I've asked my team to think about strengthening and making the frame a little more stiff.

[AndreaV]

For those of you wondering what is required to upgrade to a 3 cim ball shifter, I just quickly popped one in there to show you.


You will need the 3rd stage kit, unless you like your high gear at 26 feet/s .The plate of the 3rd stage kit is highlighted behind the AM14U rail in the pic .You can see the the heads of the bolts coming through, those are the holes you will need to transfer onto the AM14U chassis . The output shaft will also need to be cut so that it fits within the frame perimeter.

The easiest way I can suggest you locate and drill those holes:

1: Put a 1.125 bearing in through both the inner AM14U frame and the 3rd stage plate. The location of the output shaft is crucial, a bearing will locate it nicely.

2: Use a transfer punch set to find the closest fit to the holes in the 3rd stage plate

3: Choose the orientation you desire, using the 3rd stage plate as a guide. In the pic I posted the top of the 3rd stage plate is parallel to the top of the frame. Any orientation that provides you sufficient ground clearance should work, as long as the output shaft is located properly with a bearing, and there's enough metal to drill into, you should be good to go.

4: KA-Punch!

5: Remove the 3rd stage plate, it's job is done. Drill as accurately as your facilities allow, I would recommend you center drill before drilling if at all possible, and use at least a drill press. Take your time!

6: Re-assemble, if you use the 3rd stage plate in the assembly keep in mind your hex spacers may need modification.

[natebot13]

Is the AM14U Mecanum Upgrade kit legal for this year's FRC game according to the rule that no kit or part may exceed a retail value of $400? We would like to use mecanum wheels, but are unsure if the kit violates the rule. Thanks!

FRC rookie team, 4997

[Richard Wallace]

Originally Posted by natebot13

Is the AM14U Mecanum Upgrade kit legal for this year's FRC game according to the rule that no kit or part may exceed a retail value of $400? We would like to use mecanum wheels, but are unsure if the kit violates the rule. Thanks!

FRC rookie team, 4997

Look at <R11> in the FRC Manual. Read the third sentence carefully.

Could these components be assembled in several possible configurations?

[KevinG]

I like the new chassis. The flange along the bottom makes it easy to mount an electronics board in a protected, recessed position. The flange along the top will easily accept a 0.5" thick piece of material that could allow you to easily mount a plate there that's attached using the side holes. Very intelligently designed, and easy for students to work with.

Compared to having to build your own chassis (many) years ago it almost feels like cheating.

[Ian Curtis]

We ordered our 2nd AM14U on kickoff, received it late last week, and now have it mechanically assembled. It really is nice having two robot frames, it allows for much more parallel work. After far too much discussion we decided to mount our electronics panel on the underside of the chassis since we will inevitably change our minds about the layout 15 times between now and mid-February, and it will be nice to be able to pop it off without moving or unbolting anything else. You can see our layout improved significantly from when we threw A together on kickoff and when B was actually laid out today.



Our students are now quite sick of "tapping" churros.

[TD78]

Originally Posted by Ian Curtis

Our students are now quite sick of "tapping" churros.

did you use something other than the thread forming screws? next size up from a 1/4"-20?

[SargeUSMC]

Does anyone have a drawing of the side rails with dimensions at all? Specifically the dimensions for the center area where the drive hardware bolts up. I'm trying to determine what modifications may be needed for the 2 CIM ball shifters we bought.