pic: Shifting Drivetrain with Transmissions

[JesseK]

It needs encoders. Encoders are usually a trivial thing to do, but on this particular design it looks like an idler sprocket, gear or wheel would have to be used?

Originally Posted by JesseK

It needs encoders. Encoders are usually a trivial thing to do, but on this particular design it looks like an idler sprocket, gear or wheel would have to be used?

West Coast Drives typically put the encoder on one of the outer wheel shafts.

[JesseK]

Originally Posted by Andrew Lawrence

West Coast Drives typically put the encoder on one of the outer wheel shafts.

So? WCD's usually do not drill/tap the ends of the shafts either, and that's the #1 thing which complicates adding an encoder to the outer wheel shaft. What would you do to mount an encoder?

For example, could one of the button head bolts could be replace with a hex head bolt, and that hex head bolt be drilled out to the diameter of a grayhill encoder shaft? What happens to the encoder if the bolt works loose?

[MichaelBick]

Originally Posted by JesseK

So? WCD's usually do not drill/tap the ends of the shafts either, and that's the #1 thing which complicates adding an encoder to the outer wheel shaft. What would you do to mount an encoder?

I don't know about other teams, but I know that we always drill the outer shaft for a 1/4" encoder shaft.

[Jared]

Originally Posted by JesseK

It needs encoders. Encoders are usually a trivial thing to do, but on this particular design it looks like an idler sprocket, gear or wheel would have to be used?

We have a bunch of Grayhill encoders, so my plan was to put one on the back of the gearbox, and use a piece of surgical tubing as a shaft coupler between the gearbox and the encoder shaft.

254 puts one of the US digital encoders (the S4, IIRC) with ball bearings on the end of their outer wheel shaft, and just zip ties it in place.

[RonnieS]

I'm going to guess that you drill out a hole in the axle then press fit a smaller shaft into that hole for the encoder to attach or do you guys just lathe down the end of the axle and use a collar or roll pin to keep the sprocket attached?
-Ronnie

[R.C.]

For encoders,

A handful of teams (254/1538/973/1323 etc..) have just drilled a hole at the end of the shaft, shove an encoder in there, and zip tie the wiring down.

http://puu.sh/bSXmC/4694259cf2.jpg

I would atleast snap ring the sprocket side and use a bolt/washer on the other side. If you don't have the resources you could always just buy the VersaChassis hex shaft:

http://content.vexrobotics.com/vexpr...awing-Rev2.PDF

[Aren Siekmeier]

Originally Posted by R.C.

For encoders,

A handful of teams (254/1538/973/1323 etc..) have just drilled a hole at the end of the shaft, shove an encoder in there, and zip tie the wiring down.

http://puu.sh/bSXmC/4694259cf2.jpg

I would atleast snap ring the sprocket side and use a bolt/washer on the other side. If you don't have the resources you could always just buy the VersaChassis hex shaft:

http://content.vexrobotics.com/vexpr...awing-Rev2.PDF

What's your experience with the 0.251 ream on the encoder bore? I've wondered how close of a fit we'll want, and we haven't tested anything yet. How easily can you insert and remove the encoder, and how well does it stay engaged with the shaft?

[R.C.]

Originally Posted by compwiztobe

What's your experience with the 0.251 ream on the encoder bore? I've wondered how close of a fit we'll want, and we haven't tested anything yet. How easily can you insert and remove the encoder, and how well does it stay engaged with the shaft?

Aren,

We've done a .2505 - .2510 ream for the past few years. We have never had an issue, most of the time we've been able to slide in and out with little force. We used to just drill the hole but switched to a drill + reamer to get a nicer fit.

We use the S4 with a ball bearing so there is very little drag.

[MichaelBick]

Originally Posted by R.C.

Aren,

We've done a .2505 - .2510 ream for the past few years. We have never had an issue, most of the time we've been able to slide in and out with little force. We used to just drill the hole but switched to a drill + reamer to get a nicer fit.

We use the S4 with a ball bearing so there is very little drag.

We've also had success drilling the hole out with a regular 1/4" drill

[TikiTech]

Aloha!


Been away from the CD scene for a little bit. Turns out this thread is what our team has been working on for the off season.. So I thought it would be a good time to share it.

Transmission:
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img...2202479c_l.jpg

Drivetrain:
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img...40fec228_l.jpg

Here is our Tiki Tech Transmission and prototype drive frame.

The transmission plate is based on the awesome stuff from West Coast Products and Vex Pro.

This transmission is set up to run two motors on either side of the frame rail. We have designed this to use on our 2015 prototype drivetrain. It has enough clearance to go over our newly designed 1.5x3” chain and sprocket in tube frame. We have changed the mounting points to a much wider and easily accessible for quicker removal.

The system uses basically everything you get in a WCP 2 speed (DS) transmission. Plus one idler gear. Which is a duplicate gear of one that is already in the kit.

Great thing about it is that it uses any of the dog gear sets from WCP. Mix and match pinions as well, so you can get that speed ratio that suits your approach best. It is nice and compact at less than 3” (2.3 to be exact). With the pneumatics and encoder there is still lots of room in the center for use.. Battery centered is easily done!

It has an encoder mount as well. Which easily adapts to your preferred encoder.

Since this transmission plate uses WCP gears it is quite easy to setup. Just purchase their 2 speed transmission (or just the gears) and all that has to be done is turn down the input shafts to desired length (depending on if you are running the chain/belt in frame or not) and purchase the extra idler gear, input shaft and bearings. In fact when we turned down the input shafts, we just made one longer and let the one protrude past the bearing into the encode. That is how we discovered where to put the encoder mount it.. It can be done very easily with limited tools!

This new plate can be made as a solid plate or milled (as shown). Depending on your machining capabilities.

The second prototype has grooving along the outer edge for Lexan covers to keep fingers and debris out.

Questions or comments let me know, we love to hear what you think.
Enjoy!

[Oblarg]

Originally Posted by TikiTech

Aloha!


Been away from the CD scene for a little bit. Turns out this thread is what our team has been working on for the off season.. So I thought it would be a good time to share it.

Transmission:
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img...2202479c_l.jpg

Drivetrain:
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img...40fec228_l.jpg

Here is our Tiki Tech Transmission and prototype drive frame.

The transmission plate is based on the awesome stuff from West Coast Products and Vex Pro.

This transmission is set up to run two motors on either side of the frame rail. We have designed this to use on our 2015 prototype drivetrain. It has enough clearance to go over our newly designed 1.5x3” chain and sprocket in tube frame. We have changed the mounting points to a much wider and easily accessible for quicker removal.

The system uses basically everything you get in a WCP 2 speed (DS) transmission. Plus one idler gear. Which is a duplicate gear of one that is already in the kit.

Great thing about it is that it uses any of the dog gear sets from WCP. Mix and match pinions as well, so you can get that speed ratio that suits your approach best. It is nice and compact at less than 3” (2.3 to be exact). With the pneumatics and encoder there is still lots of room in the center for use.. Battery centered is easily done!

It has an encoder mount as well. Which easily adapts to your preferred encoder.

Since this transmission plate uses WCP gears it is quite easy to setup. Just purchase their 2 speed transmission (or just the gears) and all that has to be done is turn down the input shafts to desired length (depending on if you are running the chain/belt in frame or not) and purchase the extra idler gear, input shaft and bearings. In fact when we turned down the input shafts, we just made one longer and let the one protrude past the bearing into the encode. That is how we discovered where to put the encoder mount it.. It can be done very easily with limited tools!

This new plate can be made as a solid plate or milled (as shown). Depending on your machining capabilities.

The second prototype has grooving along the outer edge for Lexan covers to keep fingers and debris out.

Questions or comments let me know, we love to hear what you think.
Enjoy!

Looks like an awful lot of weight with that 4-gearbox setup - any particular motivation for that rather than a single 3-CIM gearbox?

[Jared]

Here's an updated version with HSMXpress toolpaths: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzf...ew?usp=sharing

Pictures:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...&usp=sha ring

Free speeds - 15.81 high, 7.38 low
JVN 81% speed loss - 12.81 high, 5.98 low
3.25" versa wheel

The cost for everything (without CIM motors or the pneumatic cylinder) comes out to $730, assuming big aluminum pieces for the frame come for a reasonably priced local place.

[asid61]

Originally Posted by Jared

Here's an updated version with HSMXpress toolpaths: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzf...ew?usp=sharing

Pictures:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...&usp=sha ring

Free speeds - 15.81 high, 7.38 low
JVN 81% speed loss - 12.81 high, 5.98 low
3.25" versa wheel

The cost for everything (without CIM motors or the pneumatic cylinder) comes out to $730, assuming big aluminum pieces for the frame come for a reasonably priced local place.

Those are some really good speeds for 4 cim. Hope it works out for you if you build it.

[Dunngeon]

Originally Posted by R.C.

For encoders,

A handful of teams (254/1538/973/1323 etc..) have just drilled a hole at the end of the shaft, shove an encoder in there, and zip tie the wiring down.

http://puu.sh/bSXmC/4694259cf2.jpg

I would atleast snap ring the sprocket side and use a bolt/washer on the other side. If you don't have the resources you could always just buy the VersaChassis hex shaft:

http://content.vexrobotics.com/vexpr...awing-Rev2.PDF

Are you saying that 254/1538/973/1323 don't have any kind of retaining system on the interior axle shaft besides the encoder? I've always thought the shafts should be at least snapring or e-clip retained. The picture shows some kind of piece between the encoder and shaft, but I'm not sure what it is.