Good Screw Sizes fo General Use

[pmangels17]

Make sure you get the nylon/teflon nuts that self-lock (Nylock Nuts) so that you don;t have to loctite screws. They come in thick and thin profiles for different applications as well. They are so easy to use and never have I seen one vibrate loose if properly tightened.

[asid61]

We use mostly 10-32 on our robot. 1/4"-20 is good for some high-load applications. Dead axle screws.
Nylock nuts are really nice, but get some thin ones too. They come in heights of 9/32" normally and 1/8" (4/32") for the thin ones IIRC for 10-32 screws.

We use a lot of 1/8" rivets. Vex uses 5/32" for the versachassis. 3/16" rivets are interchangeable with 10-32 screws in terms of hole size.

[Chris is me]

We use almost exclusively #10-32 hardware and 3/16 rivets so we only have to drill one hole everywhere. #8-32 screws and 5/32nd rivets are used to interface with weird Vex stuff sometimes.

Socket head cap screws basically every time.

[Michael Hill]

Whatever the job requires. #10-24 is generally the first bolt we reach for (if something can't be riveted). We'll use 10-32 if we need more thread engagement, but they just take to long to screw in and out. Our one general rule is absolutely no metric unless we're forced to.

[Mr V]

Originally Posted by Michael Hill

Whatever the job requires. #10-24 is generally the first bolt we reach for (if something can't be riveted). We'll use 10-32 if we need more thread engagement, but they just take to long to screw in and out. Our one general rule is absolutely no metric unless we're forced to.

The rule of thumb for thread engagement is in hard materials like steel you want 1x the bolt diameter and for soft materials like aluminum you want 2x the bolt diameter. That does not change whether you are using coarse or fine threads. If you look at standard steel nuts you'll find that their height is 1x the bolt diameter. So going to 10-32 to get more thread engagement isn't really gaining you anything in fact if it is in Aluminum you are more likely to strip the threads out of the item that you have tapped.

The only real advantages that find thread have are the the bolt itself is slightly stronger and that it is slightly less prone to loosening from vibration.

http://www.bestbolt.com/white_papers/white_paper_08.pdf

[Michael Hill]

Originally Posted by Mr V

The rule of thumb for thread engagement is in hard materials like steel you want 1x the bolt diameter and for soft materials like aluminum you want 2x the bolt diameter. That does not change whether you are using coarse or fine threads. If you look at standard steel nuts you'll find that their height is 1x the bolt diameter. So going to 10-32 to get more thread engagement isn't really gaining you anything in fact if it is in Aluminum you are more likely to strip the threads out of the item that you have tapped.

The only real advantages that find thread have are the the bolt itself is slightly stronger and that it is slightly less prone to loosening from vibration.

http://www.bestbolt.com/white_papers/white_paper_08.pdf

We're usually not tapping into aluminum when 10-32 were used. One way we used the 10-32 last year was in our chain tensioning system. We fed the 10-32 bolt into a helicoil. If we're tapping into aluminum, it usually is UNC. By far, 10-24 is the most common bolt we use. A recent exception was in an experimental drivetrain, because the only #10 SHCS we had was #10-32, and we needed that size and head type.

[MrRoboSteve]

#8-32 screws are nice because you can easily cut them to size if needed.

We stock 1/4", #10, #8, #6, and #4. Socket cap is the only way to go.

I would also request some #10-32 rivet nuts (ribbed) and some #8-32 threaded inserts like this. The inserts are useful for bumper building.

[JamesCH95]

We've standardized to 10-32 as much as possible. Generally SHCS style. Rivnuts, t-nuts, and nylok nuts. It has made life suck a whole lot less to standardize everything.

[GeeTwo]

Last year, almost everything we had was 10-32, allen-drive cap screws and nylon nuts (all steel). This worked out quite well for us; we might change to a different size or two this year (I'm mentoring programming this year, so not on top of the discussion), but we'll definitely have a small set of sizes for anything that we're building. When you do pick a standard size or sizes, STOCK UP ON TOOLS IN THOSE SIZE(S)! You'll never seem to have enough, since (for 10-32) everyone wants the 5/32" Allen and the 5/16" hex wrench at the same time.

[mman1506]

Originally Posted by Chris is me

Socket head cap screws basically every time.

What's the advantage of using socket head over button head?

[Jared]

Originally Posted by mman1506

What's the advantage of using socket head over button head?

Socket head typically has a deeper hex, so it's harder to strip out.

I like 10-32's over 10-24's because it's harder to break the 10-32 tap. As a rule of thumb, I try to get more than 6 threads of engagement in a tapped hole in aluminum. With a 10-32, that works out to 6/32 = 0.1875", but a 10-24 requires 6/24 = 0.250".

Once you've used both for a while, it becomes easy to identify the different threads on bolts, and you can check to see if your nut threads easily on a known bolt.

We've used 1/4-20's as axles for flywheel shooters and pivots for catapult shooters, as well as gearbox mounts.

3/8-16 or 3/8-24 is our favorite for dead axles.

[Michael Hill]

Originally Posted by Jared

Once you've used both for a while, it becomes easy to identify the different threads on bolts, and you can check to see if your nut threads easily on a known bolt.

You must not have "determined" kids that will get that 10-24 nut on the 10-32 bolt. Yeah sure, it'll go on...with enough torque.

[Oblarg]

Originally Posted by Michael Hill

You must not have "determined" kids that will get that 10-24 nut on the 10-32 bolt. Yeah sure, it'll go on...with enough torque.

Quoting for truth. As mentioned earlier in the thread, our solution to this problem is to just not buy 10-24 anymore, which removes the potential for the error in the first place. On a team as large as 449, it's just not worth the hassle for the few places where it's nice to have coarser thread.

[Mr V]

Originally Posted by Jared

Socket head typically has a deeper hex, so it's harder to strip out.

I like 10-32's over 10-24's because it's harder to break the 10-32 tap. As a rule of thumb, I try to get more than 6 threads of engagement in a tapped hole in aluminum. With a 10-32, that works out to 6/32 = 0.1875", but a 10-24 requires 6/24 = 0.250".

Once you've used both for a while, it becomes easy to identify the different threads on bolts, and you can check to see if your nut threads easily on a known bolt.

Not only does the socket head have a deeper tool engagement the tool size is usually larger for the socket head making it less likely to damage the tool or bolt. The button head is also weaker than the socket head.

Because the fine threads are not as deep (the reason it is harder to break the tap) you need more of them to have the same strength. If you look at standard nuts you'll find that their height is equal to the diameter of the bolt they work with regardless of the pitch. In other words 4.5 10-24 threads will give you the same or greater strength as 6 fine threads. The fine thread bolt will be stronger but in both cases the threads will pull out well before the bolt fails since you need 2x bolt diameter in aluminum to make the tapped threads roughly equal to the bolt strength.

It is true that once you've worked with threaded fasteners for a while it does become second nature for many people. The problem is that there are a new group of people added every year many of whom are experiencing using threaded fasteners for the first time. Because there are many new people every year that is another reason to not use fine thread fasteners because they are mush easier to cross thread.

[Chris is me]

Originally Posted by mman1506

What's the advantage of using socket head over button head?

Biggest advantage is the deeper hex, but you can also turn it with pliers if you're desperate which is nice. Also lends itself to counterboring.