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Unread 25-01-2015, 02:55
NobleActual NobleActual is offline
NobleActual
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Re: Ekocycle Issues

I have found that warping on 3D printers tends to be a combination of issues. Print size, speed/quality , infill, and shell settings will all affect your print quality, and any wrong combination of these will cause warping. First, throw down some blue painters tape on the build plate. It works wonders with PLA, keeping things from warping, while achieving a more consistent and repeatable "stickiness" level than hair spray, and without ruining or marking the build plate. While the ekocycle uses rPET, and I admit I have no experience with that, it should perform very similarly. Also, the bigger the print, the more likely it is to warp as the print will start to cool rapidly and often unevenly, causing warping around the corners. While it may seem contrary to what one would usually think, I have found it very effective to stick with the lower quality, and therefore faster, settings on larger prints, as the extruder will travel around faster leaving less time for the plastic to cool and warp before the next layer is deposited. I have never found a real reason to go over 20% infill with 3 or 4 shells at the maximum, and wouldn't recommend any more than that as prints will get incredibly slow and the chance of failure and warping grows exponentially. Finally, make sure your build plate is properly leveled. If it is not, all the settings in the world won't matter, your print will fail and warp every time. I usually level with a piece of paper, and when the extruder is just touching the paper and creating a little bit of friction, its good. Leveling is something that usually requires a certain amount of finesse, along with trial and error to get good at. Hopefully this will give you some ideas and get some great prints going!
 


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