Solenoid LEDs not on / VEX Base Leak

[cglrcng]

Also, if you have more tubing avail., I would replace both the inlet and outflow tubing to/from the regulator (and maybe even the connectors to straights from 90's maybe) w/ a little longer tubes as they are pulling the connectors off center which can also lead both (all 3~Reg. in/reg. out/ & block in connectors to leak.

That yellow locking collar on the regulator is half way up, half way down in the pic....Up to adjust regulator pressure, down to lock. Get it into 1 or the other positions also...right side is down/left up in the pic. When it is in the adjustment position it leaks very slightly on purpose to help you adjust the regulator pressure so after adjusting it, always lock it.

Can you attach a few more pictures?

Start at the compressor and work back to the block please. Getting the High Pressure side completed first and holding air (always insert a pressure relief valve in it), dividing the system into sections, and then working towards the low pressure section 2nd. seems to work best when making sure the system doesn't leak.

[popnbrown]

Some more pictures. Sorry some of them are crappy quality. Let me know if there are close-ups of anything specific you'd like.

We've been re-doing some of the tubing because it got frustrating trying to debug things would get pulled out.

So we had a leak right out from the compressor, and then a leak near the release valve and the high pressure gauge. The air tanks all seem to be good even though the one T joint seems a little iffy.


We were able to get both the High Pressure side working, although I'd like to run a test to see how the pressure may bleed, so we'll do that.

We also just setup a low pressure side with the outlet of the regulator just sent to a release valve, and that also seemed to build pressure, although it was going to about 40 PSI, and would keep going while it was still at 40.


So with the solenoid base, the orange connectors on the base being close to each other means that it is fit better than when the orange connectors are farther apart?

[cglrcng]

Also, if you have more tubing avail., I would replace both the inlet and outflow tubing to/from the regulator (and maybe even the connectors to straights from 90's maybe) w/ a little longer tubes as they are pulling the connectors off center which can also lead both (all 3~Reg. in/reg. out/ & block in connectors to leak.

That yellow locking collar on the regulator is half way up, half way down in the pic....Up to adjust regulator pressure, down to lock. Get it into 1 or the other positions also...right side is down/left up in the pic. When it is in the adjustment position it leaks very slightly on purpose to help you adjust the regulator pressure so after adjusting it, always lock it.

Can you attach a few more pictures?

Start at the compressor and work back to the block please. Getting the High Pressure side completed first and holding air (always insert a pressure relief valve in it), dividing the system into sections, and then working towards the low pressure section 2nd. seems to work best when making sure the system doesn't leak.

Please do not take anything as being critical...Just trying to help. Yes, if it hits 40 PSI and compressor is still running and does not stop running, but does not build pressure, the system is absolutely leaking.

Look very closely at pic #1 and pay strict attention to just the tubes and air connectors.....If the tubes are perpendicular to the fittings, and the fitting collars are not highly tilted, their tubes are usually long enough. But, if the tubes are too short, and I see many there in the pic, where the fitting collars are really tilted...Then those particular tubes need to be a bit longer (and or 90's used in place of straights possibly, or the opposite maybe), to alleviate and stop the chance of air leaks. All pneumatics need to be troubleshot after assembly usually....Once the team gets really expert at it, they can learn to assemble it properly from the very start.

Take the hr. or so now (grab all already cut pcs. of tubing you can find in the shop 1.5" or longer), check every fitting for tightness, flush cut tubing ends, and switch out (always start at the compressor)....The too short pcs. w/ a little longer ones (or change fittings where necessary), and get that system holding pressure firstly (high side/ then low side/ then actuation side). Divide the system into parts (using plugs or tubing loops, and conquer it! If ours has zero to very minimal leakdown when left pressured overnight. Then it is ready to practice or compete with).

I'll look at the new pics now. TY for providing them.

[cglrcng]

Sravan.....(I know you are a mentor and not a student...I would never ask to skype w/ a student directly)....Do you have skype? (Please answer only in a PM).

There are problems, and I'd like to help you get them sorted out quickly in real time (as I know your time is very short w/ Tuesday night coming very fast)....They did not teflon tape a number of threaded fittings at the compressor and the pressure relief valve Pic #4 (Fix those firstly, and always back that check valve at the compressor w/ a wrench not allowing it to turn).

That "T" at Tank #2 (right hand tank in the pic), in Pic #1 needs at least a 1" longer pc. of tubing (The tubing between the "T" and tank you cannot even see). Harder to remove from those fittings too! That will leak always!

The 3 potential leaks or more at the compressor (it appears they left out the teflon tape at the following threads.....Compressor Check Valve to "T"...."T" to bell (though I cannot see that too well in pic #4), Bell to Brass Pressure Relief Valve...NOTE: Make sure that no teflon tape gets on the end with the hole or beyond the end of the threads or in the actual bell reducer...That could plug up the hole in the pressure relief valve!

OK, then follow the hose to the first "T" and 1st (left Clippard tank)....Remove and replace that tube w at least / 1" longer tube between tank/T.

[cglrcng]

For reference (after the original skype call)...Here is the test manifold I asked you to build up using a "T", 1 straight tube fitting, 1 pressure gauge 0~130 PSI or higher, and 1 pressure dump valve....a ball type valve)...Assemble using teflon tape on all threaded fittings.

This is how to assemble our test fitting!

(We will relieve pressure here)Pressure Dump Valve---------"T"----------Straight or 90 degree Hose Fitting (We will connect to the system many times here).
I
I
0~130 PSI Pressure Gauge (We will watch pressure and bleed down or look for leakage here).

Note: It does not matter which ends of the "T" each item is on.

Next: Make sure you can control the compressor on/off via the PDP & robot controls properly. Then we make sure that the compressor threaded fittings are all taped properly, and then we will disconnect from the tanks and install our new test manifold on that first tube.

Turn on and run the compressor up to 120~125 PSI and test the pressure relief valve. Turn off the compressor if it goes beyond 125 PSI before the pressure relief valve starts leaking at the hole in the end (DO NOT ALLOW IT TO EXCEED 130 PSI!)....You can feel leaking by putting a finger over the end where the hole is of the Brass Pressure Relief valve. It should start leaking somewhere between 115 PSI and 125 PSI (Do we need to adjust it?) We will do this action live on skype.

[cglrcng]

Please refer to the PM's received for the balance.

[tStano]

My general philosophy on teflon is you can't have too much on a fitting. I can't see it poking out of any of your connections which would make me say you don't have enough. Wrap it around there 3 or 4 times. I have the same philosophy for tightening the fittings. Tighten em until you can't tighten them anymore. I don't know if this is a good philosophy, but its always worked very well for me. Leaks are very mimimal.