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Re: Belt Driven Drive Trains
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Knowing that a 24 tooth pulley, 15mm wide, HTD works for your specific application is good data. Make sure that is from a year with heavy D. In the end, the design of your drivetrain, the aggressiveness of your drivers, and the duration of your season all play into whether or not a specific belt design will be good enough for you. What works for us may not work for others. Make sure to scale the torques accordingly with wheel size changes. Bigger wheels will require higher torques to drive. Quote:
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Not to digress too much, but you can tell a lot about how a belt is performing by what happens when it fails. There are 2 classic failure modes. 1) The teeth fall off the belt. This means that you were under tensioned. Each time the belt jumps teeth, it fatigues the teeth. This eventually causes the teeth to de-laminate from the tensile elements and fall off. 2) The 'valleys' in the belt, the space between the teeth, gets crushed and the fibers break. This is a cleaner break. This means that the belt is over-tensioned. 3) I've actually seen failures where both happened at once. This tends to mean that you are just putting too much power through the belt, and can't tension it enough. Quote:
Exact C-C only works if your application is forgiving. There are a bunch of manufacturing tolerances that come into play. Actual pulley diameter, pulley runout, and belt pitch tolerance are all key parts of the equation. The tolerance of the belt pitch can be enough for longer runs that some belts will run over-tensioned on exact C-C drives, and some belts will run under-tensioned. We haven't viewed it as worth the risk to do a study and see if we could get away with exact C-C on a drivetrain. For our manipulator gearboxes, we over-design things enough that we feel comfortable doing an exact C-C for some systems. Read Page 67 for what Gates has to say about exact C-C. Their manual is very good. Page 65 has the equations for determining the recommended static tension for a given operating point. It basically boils down to the ratio of the tension in the loaded portion of the belt to the unloaded portion of the belt at your desired operating point. You want something like a 6:1 ratio (check the equations to be sure). Nowhere in there does it say that one tension is best for everything. There are 3 main ways to test belt tension that I know about. 1) pluck the belt and listen to the note it makes. You can compute the natural frequency of the belt and determine the desired tension. 2) apply a known force to the center of the span and measure the deflection. 3) buy a fancy tool. We actually use 1. It was fun to see the students all running around with tone generators on their phones plucking all the belts and trying to match the pitch. Everyone learned a lot, and the tools are cheap. At one point, I got Gates to give me rough static break numbers for the tensile elements. The numbers are comparable with #25 chain for a 9mm wide belt, GT2. Food for thought. That is the reason why we can actually get away with the belts in a high peak load system like a DT. If you actually respect the ratings, #25 chain is only good for a working load of 140 lbs. That works out to 122 in-lb for a 22 tooth sprocket. Belts are pretty cool. We love their performance, damping, and sound characteristics. Our experiences and safety margins may be a bit higher than other teams due to the long and hard life of our robots. In 2014, we probably approached 100+ hours of runtime on each of our robots. Most of that was hard focused practice under heavy D. My goal is to be able to design systems for FRC that survive those lifetimes from the beginning without over-designing too much. |
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