Best Adhesive for Metal-on-Nitrile

[Nate Laverdure]

Buy it in a preformed loop and stretch it to fit over your hub. No fasteners or adhesives needed.

Square-profile o-rings (stack up several in parallel)
Flat bands
(MANY more options if you use urethane instead of nitrile)

[Scott Kozutsky]

Our team had really excellent luck using hardware store double sided tape to make drilling and riveting easier and stronger. The tape holds the nitrile in place while you drill and rivet, making it less squirrely. It makes it considerably easier to get a very snug fit against the wheel and it also has the added benefit of reducing the shear load on the rivets quite considerably. We had relatively shallow flanges (performance wheels) and we had a rivet every third with extras where the loop ended. Properly installed, our tread would have held without the tape. It's just much easier with the tape and more secure in our experience.

[asid61]

Originally Posted by Nate Laverdure

Buy it in a preformed loop and stretch it to fit over your hub. No fasteners or adhesives needed.

Square-profile o-rings (stack up several in parallel)
Flat bands
(MANY more options if you use urethane instead of nitrile)

How much larger should your hub be than the rubber ID, in your experience?

[Mike Marandola]

Originally Posted by asid61

How much larger should your hub be than the rubber ID, in your experience?

About 30% larger according to this spreadsheet. I'm not sure if it scales up to the 4-6" range though.

[Nate Laverdure]

Originally Posted by asid61

How much larger should your hub be than the rubber ID, in your experience?

I've installed urethane replacement tires on a 16" bandsaw. The tires are about 15% undersized. Maybe interpolate between this and the resource Mike linked?

[FrankJ]

Back when I was racing bicycles, I use 3M weather strip adhesive to glue my tires on. It is basically a strong contact cement. Changing the tread will be a bear.